{"id":165338,"date":"2025-08-03T05:27:00","date_gmt":"2025-08-03T05:27:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/the-cheongsam-in-modern-chinese-art-a-muse-for-painters-and-photographers\/"},"modified":"2026-02-17T21:28:09","modified_gmt":"2026-02-18T05:28:09","slug":"the-cheongsam-in-modern-chinese-art-a-muse-for-painters-and-photographers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/the-cheongsam-in-modern-chinese-art-a-muse-for-painters-and-photographers\/","title":{"rendered":"\u010cchi-pchao v modern\u00edm \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9m um\u011bn\u00ed: m\u00faza pro mal\u00ed\u0159e a fotografy"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u010cchi-pchao<\/a> je mnohem v\u00edc ne\u017e pouh\u00fd od\u011bv. Je to silueta vpleten\u00e1 do samotn\u00e9 struktury modern\u00edch \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdch d\u011bjin, mocn\u00fd symbol \u017eenskosti, n\u00e1rodn\u00ed identity a slo\u017eit\u00e9ho vztahu mezi tradic\u00ed a modernitou. Vznikl\u00e9 v bou\u0159liv\u00e9m po\u010d\u00e1tku 20. stolet\u00ed, jeho prom\u011bna z voln\u00e9ho roucha v ikonick\u00e9, postavu obep\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed \u0161aty odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed hlubok\u00e9 spole\u010densk\u00e9 a kulturn\u00ed posuny, kter\u00e9 definovaly tuto \u00e9ru. Po v\u00edce ne\u017e stolet\u00ed tento elegantn\u00ed od\u011bv fascinoval um\u011bleckou p\u0159edstavivost a slou\u017eil jako mocn\u00e1 m\u00faza pro mal\u00ed\u0159e a fotografy, kte\u0159\u00ed se sna\u017eili zachytit nejen kr\u00e1su jeho tvaru, ale i hloubku jeho v\u00fdznamu. Skrze jejich objektivy a tahy \u0161t\u011btcem se \u010dchi-pchao prom\u011b\u0148uje z kusu oble\u010den\u00ed v narativn\u00ed prost\u0159edek, pl\u00e1tno, na kter\u00e9 se maluj\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 \u017eenskosti a kulturn\u00ed identity. Tento \u010dl\u00e1nek zkoum\u00e1 trvaj\u00edc\u00ed pou\u0165 \u010dchi-pchao modern\u00edm \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdm um\u011bn\u00edm a sleduje jeho zobrazen\u00ed od \u017eiv\u00e9ho komercialismu republik\u00e1nsk\u00e9 \u0160anghaje po nostalgick\u00e9 a konceptu\u00e1ln\u00ed interpretace sou\u010dasn\u00e9ho um\u011bleck\u00e9ho sv\u011bta.<\/p>\n

1. Zt\u011blesn\u011bn\u00e1 modern\u00ed \u017eena: Glamour republik\u00e1nsk\u00e9 \u00e9ry (20. l\u00e9ta \u2013 40. l\u00e9ta 20. stolet\u00ed)<\/h3>\n

Republik\u00e1nsk\u00e1 \u00e9ra byla obdob\u00edm radik\u00e1ln\u00edch zm\u011bn. P\u00e1d posledn\u00ed c\u00edsa\u0159sk\u00e9 dynastie a vliv Hnut\u00ed \u010dtvrt\u00e9ho kv\u011btna uvolnily nov\u00e9 my\u0161lenky o v\u011bd\u011b, demokracii a individu\u00e1ln\u00ed svobod\u011b. Pro \u017eeny to znamenalo neb\u00fdval\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitosti ve vzd\u011bl\u00e1n\u00ed, zam\u011bstn\u00e1n\u00ed a spole\u010densk\u00e9 \u00fa\u010dasti. \u010cchi-pchao se stalo uniformou t\u00e9to nov\u00e9, modern\u00ed \u017eeny. Vyv\u00edjelo se z \u0161ir\u0161\u00edho mand\u017eusk\u00e9ho roucha, bylo zjednodu\u0161eno a p\u0159izp\u016fsobeno, a\u017e se nakonec stalo proslul\u00fdm elegantn\u00edm a smysln\u00fdm \u0161atem \u0161anghajsk\u00fdch 30. let.<\/p>\n

Um\u011bn\u00ed tohoto obdob\u00ed, zejm\u00e9na to komer\u010dn\u00ed, uchopilo \u010dchi-pchao jako dokonal\u00fd symbol modernity a p\u0159ita\u017elivosti. Nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi p\u0159\u00edklady jsou „kalend\u00e1\u0159ov\u00e9 plak\u00e1ty“ (\u6708\u4efd\u724c, yu\u00e8f\u00e8n p\u00e1i<\/em>), kter\u00e9 propagovaly v\u0161e od cigaret po kosmetiku. Tyto plak\u00e1ty zobrazovaly n\u00e1dhern\u011b vyveden\u00e9 „kalend\u00e1\u0159ov\u00e9 d\u00edvky“, kter\u00e9 zt\u011bles\u0148ovaly nov\u00fd m\u011bstsk\u00fd ide\u00e1l. Od\u011bn\u00e9 v m\u00f3dn\u00edch, \u010dasto jasn\u011b vzorovan\u00fdch \u010dchi-pchao, byly zobrazov\u00e1ny p\u0159i modern\u00edch volno\u010dasov\u00fdch aktivit\u00e1ch: hran\u00ed tenisu, \u0159\u00edzen\u00ed automobilu nebo poslechu gramofonu. Um\u011blci jako \u010ceng Man-tchuo a Sie \u010c‘-kuang zdokonalili styl, kter\u00fd m\u00edsil z\u00e1padn\u00ed realismus s \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdm estetick\u00fdm c\u00edt\u011bn\u00edm, a vytv\u00e1\u0159eli idealizovan\u00e9 portr\u00e9ty sebev\u011bdom\u00fdch, stylov\u00fdch \u017een, kter\u00e9 byly z\u00e1rove\u0148 typicky \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 i glob\u00e1ln\u011b modern\u00ed.<\/p>\n

V oblasti v\u00fdtvarn\u00e9ho um\u011bn\u00ed se tak\u00e9 mal\u00ed\u0159i \u0161koleni v z\u00e1padn\u00edch akademick\u00fdch stylech obr\u00e1tili k \u010dchi-pchao. Um\u011blkyn\u011b jako Pchan J\u00fc-liang, jedna z nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch modern\u00edch \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdch mal\u00ed\u0159ek, malovala autoportr\u00e9ty a figur\u00e1ln\u00ed studie, kter\u00e9 \u010dchi-pchao p\u0159edstavovaly. Na rozd\u00edl od komer\u010dn\u00ed dokonalosti kalend\u00e1\u0159ov\u00fdch plak\u00e1t\u016f byla tato d\u00edla \u010dasto osobn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a introspektivn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, vyu\u017e\u00edvaj\u00edc\u00ed od\u011bv k prozkoum\u00e1n\u00ed t\u00e9mat identity a sebereprezentace v rychle se m\u011bn\u00edc\u00ed spole\u010dnosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Charakteristika<\/th>\nKalend\u00e1\u0159ov\u00e9 plak\u00e1ty (\u6708\u4efd\u724c)<\/th>\nV\u00fdtvarn\u00e9 mal\u00ed\u0159stv\u00ed<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
Hlavn\u00ed \u00fa\u010del<\/strong><\/td>\nKomer\u010dn\u00ed reklama<\/td>\nUm\u011bleck\u00fd v\u00fdraz a zkoum\u00e1n\u00ed<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Zobrazen\u00ed \u017eeny<\/strong><\/td>\nIdealizovan\u00e1, okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed, vzorov\u00e1 „modern\u00ed d\u00edvka“<\/td>\nOsobn\u00ed, introspektivn\u00ed, \u010dasto komplexn\u00ed a psychologick\u00e9<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Um\u011bleck\u00fd styl<\/strong><\/td>\nVyle\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd, \u017eiv\u00fd, dekorativn\u00ed, ur\u010den\u00fd pro masovou p\u0159ita\u017elivost<\/td>\nR\u016fznorod\u00fd; \u010dasto m\u00edsil z\u00e1padn\u00ed akademick\u00e9 techniky s osobn\u00edm stylem<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Kontextu\u00e1ln\u00ed prost\u0159ed\u00ed<\/strong><\/td>\nModern\u00ed, m\u011bstsk\u00e9, zam\u011b\u0159en\u00e9 na voln\u00fd \u010das (nap\u0159. kav\u00e1rny, auta)<\/td>\n\u010casto intimn\u00ed nebo ateli\u00e9rov\u00e1 prost\u0159ed\u00ed, zam\u011b\u0159en\u00e1 na jednotlivce<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Symbolika<\/strong><\/td>\nPokrok, konzumerismus, modern\u00ed \u017eivotn\u00ed styl<\/td>\nOsobn\u00ed identita, kulturn\u00ed vyjedn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed, pohled um\u011blce<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

2. Potla\u010den\u00fd symbol: \u010cchi-pchao v hibernaci (1949 \u2013 80. l\u00e9ta 20. stolet\u00ed)<\/h3>\n

Se zalo\u017een\u00edm \u010c\u00ednsk\u00e9 lidov\u00e9 republiky v roce 1949 se kulturn\u00ed krajina dramaticky zm\u011bnila. \u010cchi-pchao, s jeho asociacemi m\u011bstsk\u00e9 bur\u017eoazie, z\u00e1padn\u00edho vlivu a individu\u00e1ln\u00ed smyslnosti, bylo pova\u017eov\u00e1no za relikt dekadentn\u00ed, p\u0159edrevolu\u010dn\u00ed minulosti. Zmizelo z ve\u0159ejn\u00e9ho \u017eivota na pevnin\u011b, nahrazeno praktickou a unisexovou l\u00e1nb\u00f9 sh\u0101n<\/em> (modrou pracovn\u00ed halenou) a „Mao oblekem“.<\/p>\n

V d\u016fsledku toho \u010dchi-pchao zmizelo z \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9ho um\u011bn\u00ed na pevnin\u011b. Dominantn\u00edm um\u011bleck\u00fdm stylem \u00e9ry byl socialistick\u00fd realismus, kter\u00fd na\u0159izoval, aby um\u011bn\u00ed slou\u017eilo revoluci. Malby a sochy zobrazovaly hrdinsk\u00e9 d\u011bln\u00edky, neochv\u011bjn\u00e9 roln\u00edky a oddan\u00e9 voj\u00e1ky. \u017deny byly zobrazov\u00e1ny jako siln\u00e9 a schopn\u00e9 p\u0159isp\u011bvatelky k socialistick\u00e9mu \u00fasil\u00ed, jejich individualita byla pohlcena jejich kolektivn\u00ed rol\u00ed. V t\u00e9to ideologick\u00e9 atmosf\u00e9\u0159e nebylo m\u00edsto pro eleganci a individualismus, kter\u00e9 \u010dchi-pchao p\u0159edstavovalo.<\/p>\n

Av\u0161ak zat\u00edmco bylo na pevnin\u011b potla\u010deno, od\u011bv nad\u00e1le vzkv\u00e9tal v Hongkongu, na Tchaj-wanu a v diaspor\u00e1ln\u00edch komunit\u00e1ch po cel\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b. Stal se mocn\u00fdm symbolem kulturn\u00ed kontinuity, spojen\u00edm s \u010d\u00ednskou identitou odd\u011blenou od politick\u00e9ho narativu pevniny. To je nej\u017eiv\u011bji vid\u011bt v hongkongsk\u00e9 kinematografii 50. a 60. let, kde here\u010dky jako Li Li-chua a Linda Lin Taj okouzlily pl\u00e1tno v n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch \u010dchi-pchao, \u010d\u00edm\u017e upevnily spojen\u00ed od\u011bvu s nad\u010dasovou eleganc\u00ed. Ikonic<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u010cchi-pchao je mnohem v\u00edc ne\u017e pouh\u00fd od\u011bv. Je to silueta vpleten\u00e1 do samotn\u00e9 struktury modern\u00edch \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdch d\u011bjin, mocn\u00fd symbol \u017eenskosti, n\u00e1rodn\u00ed identity a slo\u017eit\u00e9ho vztahu mezi tradic\u00ed a modernitou. Vznikl\u00e9 v bou\u0159liv\u00e9m po\u010d\u00e1tku 20. stolet\u00ed, jeho prom\u011bna z voln\u00e9ho roucha v ikonick\u00e9, postavu obep\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed \u0161aty odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed hlubok\u00e9 spole\u010densk\u00e9 a kulturn\u00ed posuny, kter\u00e9 definovaly tuto \u00e9ru.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":163690,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37823],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-165338","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-faqs-cs","prodpage-classic"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/165338","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=165338"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/165338\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/163690"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=165338"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=165338"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=165338"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}