{"id":165378,"date":"2025-08-03T05:23:09","date_gmt":"2025-08-03T05:23:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/from-the-world-of-suzie-wong-to-crazy-rich-asians-the-cheongsam-on-the-silver-screen\/"},"modified":"2026-02-17T21:27:21","modified_gmt":"2026-02-18T05:27:21","slug":"from-the-world-of-suzie-wong-to-crazy-rich-asians-the-cheongsam-on-the-silver-screen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/from-the-world-of-suzie-wong-to-crazy-rich-asians-the-cheongsam-on-the-silver-screen\/","title":{"rendered":"Od „Sv\u011bt Suzie Wong“ po „\u0160\u00edlen\u011b bohat\u00e9 Asiaty“: \u010cchi-pchao na st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9m pl\u00e1tn\u011b"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cheongsam<\/a>, neboli qipao, nen\u00ed jen od\u011bv; je to n\u00e1doba historie, pl\u00e1tno pro um\u011bn\u00ed a mocn\u00fd symbol identity. Jeho \u0161t\u00edhl\u00e1, p\u0159il\u00e9hav\u00e1 silueta je okam\u017eit\u011b rozpoznateln\u00e1 a vyvol\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159edstavy elegance, tradice a smyslnosti. Jeho mnohostrann\u00e1 povaha nebyla nikde \u017eiv\u011bji prozkoum\u00e1na a n\u011bkdy i kontroverzn\u011b definov\u00e1na ne\u017e na st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9m pl\u00e1tn\u011b. Po desetilet\u00ed kino pou\u017e\u00edvalo cheongsam jako \u00fa\u010dinnou vizu\u00e1ln\u00ed zkratku, kter\u00e1 odr\u00e1\u017eela a formovala glob\u00e1ln\u00ed vn\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 \u017eenskosti a kultury. Sledov\u00e1n\u00edm jeho cesty od exotizovan\u00e9ho kouzla filmu Svet Suzie Wong<\/em> k emancipovan\u00e9mu vyj\u00e1d\u0159en\u00ed filmu \u0160\u00edlen\u011b bohat\u00ed Asiati<\/em> m\u016f\u017eeme mapovat \u0161ir\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdvoj v zobrazov\u00e1n\u00ed asijsk\u00e9 identity ve filmu \u2013 cestu od objektivizace k sebeur\u010den\u00ed, od stereotypu k jemn\u011bji vymezen\u00e9 sebeidentifikaci.<\/p>\n

1. Zlat\u00fd v\u011bk \u0160anghaje: Autentick\u00e9 ko\u0159eny cheongsamu<\/h3>\n

Ne\u017e si cheongsam osvojil Hollywood, byl to definitivn\u00ed od\u011bv modernizuj\u00edc\u00ed se \u010c\u00edny. Zrozen\u00fd v kosmopolitn\u00edm tygl\u00edku \u0160anghaje 20. let 20. stolet\u00ed se qipao vyvinul z voln\u00fdch \u0161at\u016f mand\u017eusk\u00e9 \u0161lechty do elegantn\u00edho, t\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159il\u00e9haj\u00edc\u00edho od\u011bvu, kter\u00fd symbolizoval „novou \u017eenu“. Byla vzd\u011blan\u00e1, spole\u010densky pohybliv\u00e1 a osvobozovala se z feud\u00e1ln\u00edch pout. Ran\u00e1 \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e1 kinematografie to oslavovala. Here\u010dky jako Ruan Lingyu a „Butterfly“ Wu se staly n\u00e1rodn\u00edmi ikonami a jejich cheongsamy na pl\u00e1tn\u011b byly embl\u00e9mem nov\u011b nalezen\u00e9 glamour a nez\u00e1vislosti. V t\u011bchto filmech cheongsam nebyl exotick\u00fdm kost\u00fdmem, ale sou\u010dasn\u00fdm uniformn\u00edm od\u011bvem elegance, kter\u00fd nosily \u017eeny pohybuj\u00edc\u00ed se ve slo\u017eitostech rychle se m\u011bn\u00edc\u00ed spole\u010dnosti. Byl to symbol \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 modernity pro \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 publikum.<\/p>\n

\"Sv\u011bt<\/p>\n

2. Z\u00e1padn\u00ed pohled: Exotismus a kli\u0161\u00e9 „Suzie Wong“<\/h3>\n

Kdy\u017e cheongsam vstoupil do z\u00e1padn\u00ed filmov\u00e9 p\u0159edstavivosti, jeho v\u00fdznam byl hluboce zm\u011bn\u011bn. Zlomov\u00fdm okam\u017eikem byl film z roku 1960 Svet Suzie Wong<\/em> s Nancy Kwan v hlavn\u00ed roli. Film, odehr\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed se v Hongkongu, vypr\u00e1v\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed prostitutky se srdcem ze zlata, kter\u00e1 okouzl\u00ed b\u00edl\u00e9ho americk\u00e9ho um\u011blce. \u0160atn\u00edk Nancy Kwan se skl\u00e1d\u00e1 t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v\u00fdhradn\u011b z \u017eiv\u00e9 kolekce cheongsam\u016f. A\u010dkoli jsou tyto od\u011bvy vizu\u00e1ln\u011b ohromuj\u00edc\u00ed, slou\u017eily k zabalen\u00ed jej\u00ed postavy pro z\u00e1padn\u00ed mu\u017esk\u00fd pohled. Cheongsam se stal uniformou „t\u011bch druh\u00fdch“ \u2013 exotickou, smyslnou a v kone\u010dn\u00e9m d\u016fsledku dostupnou. Vysok\u00fd rozparek, p\u016fvodn\u011b navr\u017een\u00fd pro snadn\u00fd pohyb, byl p\u0159ehnan\u00fd, aby zd\u016fraznil sexualitu. Toto zobrazen\u00ed upevnilo cheongsam v z\u00e1padn\u00edch mysl\u00edch jako symbol spojen\u00fd s jedn\u00edm ze dvou p\u0159evl\u00e1daj\u00edc\u00edch stereotyp\u016f: pod\u0159\u00edzenou „Lotosovou kv\u011btinou“ nebo nebezpe\u010dn\u011b sv\u016fdnou „D\u00e1mskou dra\u010dic\u00ed“.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Aspekt<\/th>\nP\u016fvodn\u00ed \u0161anghajsk\u00fd kontext<\/th>\nKontext „Sv\u011bt Suzie Wong“<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
Symbolika<\/strong><\/td>\nModernost, osvobozen\u00ed, elegance, n\u00e1rodn\u00ed hrdost<\/td>\nExoti\u010dnost, smyslnost, pod\u0159\u00edzenost, cizost<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
St\u0159ih & padnut\u00ed<\/strong><\/td>\nSkromn\u00e9, ale m\u00f3dn\u00ed, u\u0161it\u00e9 na m\u00edru jednotlivci<\/td>\n\u010casto p\u0159ehnan\u011b t\u011bsn\u00e9 s vysok\u00fdm rozparkem, aby zd\u016fraznily sexualitu<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Typ postavy<\/strong><\/td>\n„Nov\u00e1 \u017eena“: vzd\u011blan\u00e1, nez\u00e1visl\u00e1, modern\u00ed<\/td>\n„Lotosov\u00e1 kv\u011btina“: kr\u00e1sn\u00fd, tragick\u00fd a dostupn\u00fd objekt touhy<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Zam\u00fd\u0161len\u00e9 publikum<\/strong><\/td>\nP\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 publikum<\/td>\nP\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm z\u00e1padn\u00ed publikum<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Toto kli\u0161\u00e9 p\u0159etrv\u00e1valo po desetilet\u00ed, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e cheongsam se objevoval v nes\u010detn\u00fdch filmech, od s\u00e9rie o Jamesi Bondovi po r\u016fzn\u00e9 hollywoodsk\u00e9 ak\u010dn\u00ed filmy, \u010dasto no\u0161en\u00fd postavami, kter\u00e9 byly bu\u010f z\u00e1porn\u00fdmi femme fatale, nebo d\u00e1mami v nesn\u00e1z\u00edch.<\/p>\n

3. Znovunabyt\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu: Vizu\u00e1ln\u00ed poezie Wonga Kar-waie<\/h3>\n

Filmov\u00e9 znovunabyt\u00ed cheongsamu za\u010dalo v\u00e1\u017en\u011b s mistrovsk\u00fdm d\u00edlem Wonga Kar-waie, L\u00e1ska v \u010dasech nen\u00e1visti<\/em> (2000). Film, odehr\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed se v Hongkongu 60. let, ve stejn\u00e9 dob\u011b jako Suzie Wong<\/em>, p\u0159edstavuje zcela odli\u0161nou vizi. Hlavn\u00ed hrdinka Su Li-zhen (zahr\u00e1la Maggie Cheung) nos\u00ed b\u011bhem filmu p\u0159es dvacet r\u016fzn\u00fdch cheongsam\u016f, z nich\u017e ka\u017ed\u00fd je um\u011bleck\u00fdm d\u00edlem. Nejsou to v\u0161ak od\u011bvy sv\u00e1d\u011bn\u00ed. M\u00edsto toho funguj\u00ed jako jak\u00fdsi emocion\u00e1ln\u00ed panc\u00ed\u0159. Nemo\u017en\u011b vysok\u00e9, tuh\u00e9 l\u00edmce a omezuj\u00edc\u00ed st\u0159ih odr\u00e1\u017eej\u00ed jej\u00ed potla\u010dovan\u00e9 touhy, jej\u00ed osam\u011blost a dusivou spole\u010denskou etiketu, kter\u00e1 ji a jej\u00edho souseda Chow Mo-wana uv\u011bz\u0148uje. L\u00e1tka a vzor ka\u017ed\u00fdch \u0161at\u016f se m\u011bn\u00ed s n\u00e1ladou a plynut\u00edm \u010dasu a st\u00e1vaj\u00ed se tich\u00fdm vyprav\u011b\u010dem jej\u00edho vnit\u0159n\u00edho zmatku. Wong Kar-wai zbavil cheongsam jeho z\u00e1padn\u00edho exotismu a obnovil jeho d\u016fstojnost, pou\u017e\u00edval jej jako n\u00e1stroj hlubok\u00e9 charakterov\u00e9 studie a vizu\u00e1ln\u00ed poezie. Pro ty, kte\u0159\u00ed se zaj\u00edmaj\u00ed o slo\u017eit\u00e9 detaily kost\u00fdm\u016f filmu, od konkr\u00e9tn\u00edch kv\u011btinov\u00fdch vzor\u016f po krej\u010dovsk\u00e9 techniky, poskytuj\u00ed specializovan\u00e9 zdroje jako PandaSilk.com vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed anal\u00fdzu toho, jak ka\u017ed\u00fd od\u011bv p\u0159isp\u00edv\u00e1 k vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed filmu.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

4. Sebeur\u010den\u00ed a akce: Cheongsam v nov\u00e9m sv\u011btle<\/h3>\n

Po filmu L\u00e1ska v \u010dasech nen\u00e1visti<\/em> za\u010dali dal\u0161\u00ed filma\u0159i zkoumat potenci\u00e1l cheongsamu s v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed jemnost\u00ed. Ve \u0161pion\u00e1\u017en\u00edm thrilleru Anga Leeho Lust, Caution<\/em> (2007) jsou cheongsamy, kter\u00e9 nos\u00ed postava Tang Wei, kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 pro jej\u00ed misi. Jsou to n\u00e1stroje jej\u00edho \u0161pion\u00e1\u017en\u00edho \u0159emesla, pe\u010dliv\u011b vybran\u00e9, aby sv\u00e1d\u011bly, prom\u00edtaly obraz sofistikovanosti a infiltrovaly vysokou spole\u010dnost. Zde smyslnost \u0161at\u016f nen\u00ed pro pot\u011b\u0161en\u00ed pasivn\u00edho pohledu, ale je aktivn\u011b zbra\u0148ov\u00e1na \u017eenou s jasn\u00fdm sebeur\u010den\u00edm, i kdy\u017e ji jej\u00ed mise nakonec pohlt\u00ed. Od\u011bv je kost\u00fdm, ale takov\u00fd, kter\u00fd si sama zvol\u00ed nosit jako sou\u010d\u00e1st smrteln\u00e9ho p\u0159edstaven\u00ed. Toto zobrazen\u00ed posunulo cheongsam za pouh\u00fd symbol kr\u00e1sy nebo \u00fatlaku do \u0159\u00ed\u0161e \u017eensk\u00e9 s\u00edly a strategie.<\/p>\n

N\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed tabulka zd\u016fraz\u0148uje prom\u011b\u0148uj\u00edc\u00ed se zobrazen\u00ed cheongsamu v kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00fdch filmech.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
N\u00e1zev filmu<\/th>\nRok<\/th>\nKl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e1 postava<\/th>\nSymbolick\u00fd v\u00fdznam cheongsamu<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
Svet Suzie Wong<\/strong><\/td>\n1960<\/td>\nSuzie Wong (Nancy Kwan)<\/td>\nUniforma exoti\u010dnosti a sexu\u00e1ln\u00ed dostupnosti pro z\u00e1padn\u00ed pohled.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
L\u00e1ska v \u010dasech nen\u00e1visti<\/strong><\/td>\n2000<\/td>\nSu Li-zhen (Maggie Cheung)<\/td>\nSymbol potla\u010dovan\u00e9 emocionality, elegance, osam\u011blosti a dusiv\u00e9 kr\u00e1sy.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Lust, Caution<\/strong><\/td>\n2007<\/td>\nWong Chia Chi (Tang Wei)<\/td>\nStrategick\u00fd n\u00e1stroj \u0161pion\u00e1\u017ee a sv\u00e1d\u011bn\u00ed; kost\u00fdm pro p\u0159edstaven\u00ed moci.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u0160\u00edlen\u011b bohat\u00ed Asiati<\/strong><\/td>\n2018<\/td>\nEleanor Young & Rachel Chu<\/td>\nDvojit\u00fd symbol: tradi\u010dn\u00ed autorita (Eleanor) a modern\u00ed, sebeur\u010den\u00e1 identita (Rachel).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

5. Kruh se uzav\u00edr\u00e1: Moc a identita ve filmu „\u0160\u00edlen\u011b bohat\u00ed Asiati“<\/h3>\n

Cesta filmov\u00e9ho cheongsamu se uzav\u00edr\u00e1 v trh\u00e1ku \u0160\u00edlen\u011b bohat\u00ed Asiati<\/em> (2018). Film mistrn\u011b vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 tento od\u011bv k prozkoum\u00e1n\u00ed t\u00e9mat tradice, modernity a kulturn\u00ed identity nap\u0159\u00ed\u010d generacemi. Hroziv\u00e1 matriarcha Eleanor Young (Michelle Yeoh) nos\u00ed klasick\u00e9, bezvadn\u011b u\u0161it\u00e9 cheongsamy, kter\u00e9 vyza\u0159uj\u00ed autoritu, bohatstv\u00ed a neochv\u011bjn\u00fd z\u00e1vazek k tradici. Jej\u00ed cheongsamy jsou jej\u00edm brn\u011bn\u00edm, symbolizuj\u00edc\u00edm jej\u00ed roli str\u00e1\u017ekyn\u011b rodinn\u00e9ho d\u011bdictv\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"\u0160\u00edlen\u011b<\/p>\n

Naproti tomu hlavn\u00ed hrdinka, \u010d\u00ednsko-americk\u00e1 Rachel Chu (Constance Wu), se zpo\u010d\u00e1tku obl\u00e9k\u00e1 do z\u00e1padn\u00edch styl\u016f, co\u017e symbolizuje jej\u00ed kulturn\u00ed odpojen\u00ed. Jej\u00edm kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00fdm momentem sebeuskute\u010dn\u011bn\u00ed je vrcholn\u00e1 sc\u00e9na s mahjongem. Pro toto st\u0159etnut\u00ed s Eleanor si obl\u00e9k\u00e1 ohromuj\u00edc\u00ed, sv\u011btle modr\u00e9 \u0161aty, kter\u00e9 jsou jasn\u011b inspirov\u00e1ny cheongsamem, ale jsou modern\u00ed ve st\u0159ihu a designu. Nen\u00ed to kost\u00fdm, kter\u00fd by j\u00ed byl vnucen, ale jej\u00ed vlastn\u00ed volba. Jej\u00edm no\u0161en\u00edm Rachel signalizuje, \u017ee p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1 sv\u00e9 d\u011bdictv\u00ed, ale na sv\u00fdch vlastn\u00edch podm\u00ednk\u00e1ch. Nen\u00ed Suzie Wong, objektem fantazie, ani nen\u00ed Su Li-zhen, postavou kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 trag\u00e9die. Je modern\u00ed, sebev\u011bdomou \u017eenou, kter\u00e1 spojuje dv\u011b kultury, a jej\u00ed cheongsam je prohl\u00e1\u0161en\u00edm t\u00e9to hybridn\u00ed, emancipovan\u00e9 identity.<\/p>\n

Cheongsam, kdysi pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00fd Hollywoodem k definov\u00e1n\u00ed a omezov\u00e1n\u00ed asijsk\u00e9 \u017eeny, byl na pl\u00e1tn\u011b triumf\u00e1ln\u011b znovunabyt. Jeho filmov\u00e1 evoluce odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed \u0161ir\u0161\u00ed boj za autentick\u00e9 zastoupen\u00ed, pohybuj\u00edc\u00ed se od jednorozm\u011brn\u00e9ho kli\u0161\u00e9 ke komplexn\u00edmu a mnohostrann\u00e9mu symbolu. Cesta z postrann\u00edch uli\u010dek Hongkongu Suzie Wong do ok\u00e1zal\u00fdch s\u00edn\u00ed singapursk\u00e9 rodiny Youngov\u00fdch nen\u00ed jen p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhem o \u0161atech. Je to p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh o tom, jak se kino pomalu u\u010dilo vid\u011bt \u017eeny, kter\u00e9 je nos\u00ed, ne jako exotick\u00e9 objekty, ale jako mocn\u00e9, jemn\u011b vymezen\u00e9 a sebeur\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed subjekty, kter\u00fdmi v\u017edy byly. Cheongsam z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 ikonou, ale jeho v\u00fdznam ji\u017e nen\u00ed diktov\u00e1n ostatn\u00edmi; nyn\u00ed je definov\u00e1n \u017eenami, kter\u00e9 jej nos\u00ed, a\u0165 u\u017e na pl\u00e1tn\u011b, nebo mimo n\u011bj.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cheongsam, neboli qipao, nen\u00ed jen od\u011bv; je to n\u00e1doba historie, pl\u00e1tno pro um\u011bn\u00ed a mocn\u00fd symbol identity. Jeho \u0161t\u00edhl\u00e1, p\u0159il\u00e9hav\u00e1 silueta je okam\u017eit\u011b rozpoznateln\u00e1 a vyvol\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159edstavy elegance, tradice a smyslnosti. Jeho mnohostrann\u00e1 povaha nebyla nikde \u017eiv\u011bji prozkoum\u00e1na a n\u011bkdy i kontroverzn\u011b definov\u00e1na ne\u017e na st\u0159\u00edbrn\u00e9m pl\u00e1tn\u011b. Po desetilet\u00ed kino pou\u017e\u00edvalo cheongsam jako \u00fa\u010dinnou vizu\u00e1ln\u00ed<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":163682,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37823],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-165378","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-faqs-cs","prodpage-classic"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/165378","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=165378"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/165378\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/163682"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=165378"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=165378"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=165378"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}