{"id":165898,"date":"2025-08-03T01:28:17","date_gmt":"2025-08-03T01:28:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/ancient-chinese-and-japanese-costumes\/"},"modified":"2026-02-17T21:26:49","modified_gmt":"2026-02-18T05:26:49","slug":"ancient-chinese-and-japanese-costumes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/ancient-chinese-and-japanese-costumes\/","title":{"rendered":"Starov\u011bk\u00e9 \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 a japonsk\u00e9 kost\u00fdmy"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Oble\u010den\u00ed civilizace je mnohem v\u00edc ne\u017e pouh\u00e1 ochrana p\u0159ed \u017eivly; je to tkan\u00fd p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh jej\u00ed historie, soci\u00e1ln\u00ed struktury, filozofie a estetick\u00fdch hodnot. Tradi\u010dn\u00ed kroje starov\u011bk\u00e9 \u010c\u00edny a Japonska jsou obzvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b v\u00fdmluvn\u00fdmi p\u0159\u00edklady tohoto principu. Od spl\u00fdvav\u00fdch r\u00f3b u\u010denc\u016f z doby dynastie Chan po slo\u017eit\u00e9 vrstvy od\u011bvu dvorn\u00ed d\u00e1my z obdob\u00ed Heian jsou tyto od\u011bvy sv\u011bdectv\u00edm o vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed \u0159emesln\u00e9 zru\u010dnosti a hlubok\u00e9m kulturn\u00edm symbolismu. A\u010dkoli jsou \u010dasto vn\u00edm\u00e1ny jako podobn\u00e9 kv\u016fli spole\u010dn\u00fdm kulturn\u00edm ko\u0159en\u016fm, od\u011bvn\u00ed tradice t\u011bchto dvou velk\u00fdch v\u00fdchodoasijsk\u00fdch kultur se vyv\u00edjely odli\u0161n\u00fdmi cestami, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e ka\u017ed\u00e1 vytvo\u0159ila jedine\u010dn\u00fd a hluboce v\u00fdmluvn\u00fd vizu\u00e1ln\u00ed jazyk. Tato pr\u016fzkumn\u00e1 studie se pono\u0159uje do bohat\u00e9 historie starov\u011bk\u00e9ho \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9ho hanfu a japonsk\u00e9ho wafuku, zkoum\u00e1 jejich kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00e9 formy, materi\u00e1ly, kter\u00e9 jim d\u00e1valy \u017eivot, a filozofie, kter\u00e9 zt\u011bles\u0148ovaly.<\/p>\n<h3>1. Rozmanit\u00fd sv\u011bt \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9ho hanfu<\/h3>\n<p>Hanfu (\u6f22\u670d), doslova \u201eod\u011bv Chan\u016f\u201c, je souhrnn\u00fd term\u00edn pro tradi\u010dn\u00ed od\u011bv \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9ho etnika Chan, zahrnuj\u00edc\u00ed tis\u00edce let dynastick\u00fdch zm\u011bn p\u0159ed \u00e9rou dynastie \u010cching. Jeho z\u00e1kladn\u00ed principy, stanoven\u00e9 ji\u017e za dynastie \u0160ang, se to\u010dily kolem dvoud\u00edln\u00e9ho syst\u00e9mu: svrchn\u00edho od\u011bvu zvan\u00e9ho <em>yi<\/em> (\u8863) a spodn\u00edho od\u011bvu, typicky sukn\u011b, zvan\u00e9ho <em>shang<\/em> (\u88f3). Charakteristick\u00fdm rysem byl zk\u0159\u00ed\u017een\u00fd l\u00edmec, kter\u00fd byl v\u017edy zap\u00edn\u00e1n zprava p\u0159es lev\u00e9 rameno (<em>jiaoling youren<\/em>, \u53f3\u887d). V pr\u016fb\u011bhu stalet\u00ed se tento z\u00e1kladn\u00ed syst\u00e9m vyvinul v rozs\u00e1hl\u00fd a rozmanit\u00fd \u0161atn\u00edk.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8905\" src=\"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/Traditional-Chinese-Hanfu-Dress-Clothing-16.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"1052\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Dynastie Chan (206 p\u0159. n. l. \u2013 220 n. l.) upevnila mnoho klasick\u00fdch forem. V\u00fdznamn\u00fdm stylem byl <em>shenyi<\/em> (\u6df1\u8863), neboli \u201ehlubok\u00e1 r\u00f3ba\u201c, dlouh\u00fd jednod\u00edln\u00fd od\u011bv vytvo\u0159en\u00fd se\u0161it\u00edm <em>yi<\/em> a <em>shang<\/em> dohromady. Tento od\u011bv byl bohat\u00fd na filozofick\u00fd v\u00fdznam, jeho spl\u00fdvav\u00e9 ruk\u00e1vy p\u0159edstavovaly pohyb nebes a rovn\u00e9 \u0161vy symbolizovaly poctivost lidstva.<\/p>\n<p>Dynastie Tchang (618\u2013907 n. l.) je \u0161iroce pova\u017eov\u00e1na za zlat\u00fd v\u011bk \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 kultury a jej\u00ed m\u00f3da odr\u00e1\u017eela tento kosmopolitn\u00ed a sebev\u011bdom\u00fd duch. Vlivy Hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 stezky p\u0159inesly nov\u00e9 l\u00e1tky a motivy. Zejm\u00e9na \u017eensk\u00fd od\u011bv se stal odv\u00e1\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00edm a ok\u00e1zalej\u0161\u00edm. Velmi popul\u00e1rn\u00ed byl vysokop\u00e1s\u00fd <em>ruqun<\/em> (\u8966\u88d9), dvoud\u00edln\u00fd soubor halenky a dlouh\u00e9 sukn\u011b. Vyzna\u010doval se hlubok\u00fdmi v\u00fdst\u0159ihy, objemn\u00fdmi ruk\u00e1vy a \u017eiv\u00fdmi barvami, \u010d\u00edm\u017e vytv\u00e1\u0159el p\u016fvabnou a p\u016fsobivou siluetu, kter\u00e1 se stala ikonickou pro toto obdob\u00ed.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8873\" src=\"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/Hanfu-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"1920\" \/><\/p>\n<table class=\"table table-striped table-bordered\">\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th align=\"left\">Prvek<\/th>\n<th align=\"left\">Hanfu z doby Chan (nap\u0159. Shenyi)<\/th>\n<th align=\"left\">Hanfu z doby Tchang (nap\u0159. Ruqun)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Silueta<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Konzervativn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, obep\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed a d\u016fstojn\u00e1.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Otev\u0159en\u00e1, plynul\u00e1 a objemn\u00e1.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Pas<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">P\u0159irozen\u00fd nebo nedefinovan\u00fd.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">V\u00fdrazn\u011b vysok\u00fd, v\u00e1zan\u00fd t\u011bsn\u011b pod poprs\u00edm.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>L\u00edmec<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Vysok\u00fd, zk\u0159\u00ed\u017een\u00fd styl.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">U \u017een byly b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 hlub\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdst\u0159ihy.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Ruk\u00e1vy<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">St\u0159edn\u011b \u0161irok\u00e9, \u010dasto s \u00fazk\u00fdmi man\u017eetami.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Extr\u00e9mn\u011b \u0161irok\u00e9 a dlouh\u00e9, spl\u00fdvav\u00e9 ruk\u00e1vy.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Vliv<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Zako\u0159en\u011bn\u00fd v ritu\u00e1lech a filozofii dynastie \u010cou.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Kosmopolitn\u00ed, ovlivn\u011bn\u00fd kulturami Hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 stezky.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Po mongolsk\u00e9 dynastii J\u00fcan do\u0161lo za dynastie Ming (1368\u20131644) k obnoven\u00ed a kodifikaci styl\u016f hanfu. Od\u011bvy jako <em>aoqun<\/em> (\u8956\u88d9), soubor skl\u00e1daj\u00edc\u00ed se z pod\u0161it\u00e9ho kab\u00e1tku (<em>ao<\/em>) a sukn\u011b (<em>qun<\/em>), se staly standardem. Tyto od\u011bvy se vyzna\u010dovaly slo\u017eit\u00fdm vy\u0161\u00edv\u00e1n\u00edm, tkan\u00fdmi vzory (zn\u00e1m\u00fdmi jako <em>zhijin<\/em>) a \u010dasto obsahovaly stojac\u00ed l\u00edmce a knofl\u00edkov\u00e9 smy\u010dky zn\u00e1m\u00e9 jako <em>pankou<\/em>, p\u0159edch\u016fdce prvk\u016f vid\u011bn\u00fdch v pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00edm od\u011bvu. V\u00fdvoj od t\u011bchto slo\u017eit\u00fdch, vrstven\u00fdch syst\u00e9m\u016f k pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00edm od\u011bv\u016fm, jako je ovlivn\u011bn\u00fd mand\u017eusk\u00fd qipao (cheongsam), ukazuje dynamickou a neust\u00e1le se m\u011bn\u00edc\u00ed povahu \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9ho od\u011bvu, co\u017e je t\u00e9ma podrobn\u011b zpracovan\u00e9 na zdroj\u00edch jako PandaSilk.com.<\/p>\n<h3>2. Rafinovan\u00e1 estetika japonsk\u00e9ho wafuku<\/h3>\n<p>Tradi\u010dn\u00ed od\u011bv Japonska, souhrnn\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00fd jako <em>Wafuku<\/em> (\u548c\u670d), neboli \u201ejaponsk\u00fd od\u011bv\u201c, vd\u011b\u010d\u00ed za sv\u016fj ran\u00fd v\u00fdvoj v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 kulturn\u00ed v\u00fdm\u011bn\u011b s \u010c\u00ednou z doby Tchang. B\u011bhem japonsk\u00e9ho obdob\u00ed Nara (710\u2013794) japonsk\u00fd dv\u016fr t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 beze zbytku p\u0159evzal m\u00f3du a zvyky z doby Tchang. B\u011bhem n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edho obdob\u00ed Heian (794\u20131185), jak kontakt Japonska s \u010c\u00ednou sl\u00e1bl, v\u0161ak za\u010dal vzkv\u00e9tat jedine\u010dn\u011b domorod\u00fd estetick\u00fd sm\u011br.<\/p>\n<p>Toto je nejzn\u00e1m\u011bji dolo\u017eeno od\u011bvem <em>j\u016bnihitoe<\/em> (\u5341\u4e8c\u5358), neboli \u201edvan\u00e1ctivrstvou r\u00f3bou\u201c, kterou nosily dvorn\u00ed d\u00e1my. A\u010dkoli ne v\u017edy p\u0159esn\u011b dvan\u00e1ct vrstev, tento ok\u00e1zal\u00fd soubor se skl\u00e1dal z n\u011bkolika hedv\u00e1bn\u00fdch r\u00f3b (<em>uchigi<\/em>) r\u016fzn\u00fdch barev, pe\u010dliv\u011b uspo\u0159\u00e1dan\u00fdch tak, aby vytvo\u0159ily n\u00e1znak barevn\u00e9 harmonie na ruk\u00e1vech, l\u00edmci a lemu. Nejspodn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm od\u011bvem byl <em>kosode<\/em> (\u5c0f\u8896), doslova \u201emal\u00e9 ruk\u00e1vy\u201c, jednoduch\u00e1 hedv\u00e1bn\u00e1 r\u00f3ba, kter\u00e1 o stalet\u00ed pozd\u011bji vytvo\u0159ila z\u00e1klad modern\u00edho kimona.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8918\" src=\"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/Kimono.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1119\" height=\"793\" \/><\/p>\n<p>B\u011bhem m\u00edrov\u00e9ho a prosperuj\u00edc\u00edho obdob\u00ed Edo (1603\u20131868) se <em>kosode<\/em> p\u0159em\u011bnilo ze spodn\u00edho pr\u00e1dla na hlavn\u00ed svrchn\u00ed od\u011bv pro v\u0161echny t\u0159\u00eddy a pohlav\u00ed. To je od\u011bv, kter\u00fd dnes zn\u00e1me jako kimono (\u7740\u7269), co\u017e jednodu\u0161e znamen\u00e1 \u201ev\u011bc k no\u0161en\u00ed\u201c. Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed r\u00f3ba ve tvaru p\u00edsmene T s rovn\u00fdmi \u0161vy se stala pl\u00e1tnem pro mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 um\u011bleck\u00e9 vyj\u00e1d\u0159en\u00ed prost\u0159ednictv\u00edm barven\u00ed, tkan\u00ed a vy\u0161\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed. Kl\u00ed\u010dov\u00fdm v\u00fdvojem t\u00e9to \u00e9ry byla evoluce p\u00e1su, neboli <em>obi<\/em> (\u5e2f). P\u016fvodn\u011b jednoduch\u00e1 \u0161\u0148\u016fra se <em>obi<\/em> roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ila, prodlou\u017eila a stala se dekorativn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, \u010d\u00edm\u017e se stala \u00fast\u0159edn\u00edm prvkem od\u011bvu a vy\u017eadovala slo\u017eit\u00e9 uzly (<em>musubi<\/em>) k uv\u00e1z\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/p>\n<table class=\"table table-striped table-bordered\">\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th align=\"left\">Sou\u010d\u00e1st<\/th>\n<th align=\"left\">Popis<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Kimono<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Hlavn\u00ed svrchn\u00ed r\u00f3ba ve tvaru p\u00edsmene T.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Nagajuban<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Spodn\u00ed kimono, kter\u00e9 chr\u00e1n\u00ed svrchn\u00ed od\u011bv a umo\u017e\u0148uje vid\u011bt l\u00edmec.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Obi<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">\u0160irok\u00fd p\u00e1s uv\u00e1zan\u00fd kolem pasu, \u010dasto nejdekorativn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed prvek.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Obijime<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Dekorativn\u00ed \u0161\u0148\u016fra uv\u00e1zan\u00e1 p\u0159es obi, kter\u00e1 ji dr\u017e\u00ed na m\u00edst\u011b.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Obiage<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Kousek hedv\u00e1b\u00ed zastr\u010den\u00fd do horn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti obi, p\u0159id\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed vrstvu barvy.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Tabi<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Pono\u017eky s odd\u011blen\u00fdm palcem ur\u010den\u00e9 k no\u0161en\u00ed s tradi\u010dn\u00ed obuv\u00ed.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Z\u014dri\/Geta<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Tradi\u010dn\u00ed sand\u00e1ly s p\u00e1skem mezi prsty. Z\u014dri jsou ploch\u00e9, zat\u00edmco Geta jsou vyv\u00fd\u0161en\u00e9 na d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdch podr\u00e1\u017ek\u00e1ch.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h3>3. Materi\u00e1ly, motivy a sd\u00edlen\u00fd symbolismus<\/h3>\n<p>Jak \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9, tak japonsk\u00e9 tradi\u010dn\u00ed kroje kladly nesm\u00edrnou hodnotu na materi\u00e1ly a symbolickou v\u00fdzdobu. Hedv\u00e1b\u00ed bylo l\u00e1tkou volby pro elitu v obou kultur\u00e1ch, cen\u011bn\u00e9 pro sv\u016fj lesk, texturu a schopnost udr\u017eet \u017eiv\u00e9 barvy. Konop\u00ed a ramie se pou\u017e\u00edvaly pro ka\u017edodenn\u00ed od\u011bv prost\u00fdch lid\u00ed.<\/p>\n<p>Barvy m\u011bly hlubok\u00fd v\u00fdznam. V \u010c\u00edn\u011b byla \u017elut\u00e1 v\u00fdhradn\u00ed barvou c\u00edsa\u0159e, \u010derven\u00e1 symbolizovala radost, \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed a oslavu (co\u017e z n\u00ed d\u011blalo barvu pro svatby) a b\u00edl\u00e1 byla vyhrazena pro smutek. V Japonsku, a\u010dkoli ovlivn\u011bno \u010c\u00ednou, se tak\u00e9 vyvinuly odli\u0161n\u00e9 v\u00fdznamy. Tmav\u011b fialov\u00e1 byla barvou c\u00edsa\u0159sk\u00e9 moci a aristokracie, zat\u00edmco b\u00edl\u00e1 se spojovala s \u010distotou a bo\u017estv\u00edm, proto jej\u00ed pou\u017eit\u00ed v \u0161intoistick\u00fdch ritu\u00e1lech a tradi\u010dn\u00edm svatebn\u00edm od\u011bvu.<\/p>\n<p>Motivy byly vizu\u00e1ln\u00edm slovn\u00edkem aspirac\u00ed, postaven\u00ed a sez\u00f3nn\u00ed kr\u00e1sy. Mnoho motiv\u016f bylo sd\u00edleno, a\u010dkoli jejich stylov\u00e9 ztv\u00e1rn\u011bn\u00ed se \u010dasto li\u0161ilo.<\/p>\n<table class=\"table table-striped table-bordered\">\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th align=\"left\">Motiv<\/th>\n<th align=\"left\">\u010c\u00ednsk\u00fd symbolismus<\/th>\n<th align=\"left\">Japonsk\u00fd symbolismus<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Drak<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">C\u00edsa\u0159sk\u00e1 moc, s\u00edla, dobr\u00e9 \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, c\u00edsa\u0159.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Vodn\u00ed bo\u017estvo, s\u00edla, dobr\u00e9 \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>F\u00e9nix (Fenghuang\/H\u014d-\u014d)<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Ctnost, p\u016fvab, dobr\u00e9 \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, c\u00edsa\u0159ovna.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">C\u00edsa\u0159sk\u00fd dv\u016fr, ctnost, v\u011brnost.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Pivo\u0148ka<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Bohatstv\u00ed, prosperita, kr\u00e1sa, \u201ekr\u00e1l kv\u011btin\u201c.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Dobr\u00e9 \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, odvaha, \u010dest.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Je\u0159\u00e1b<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Dlouhov\u011bkost, moudrost, nesmrtelnost.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Dlouhov\u011bkost, dobr\u00e9 \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, \u010dasto spojov\u00e1n se s\u0148atkem.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>T\u0159e\u0161\u0148ov\u00fd kv\u011bt (Sakura)<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">&#8211; (V\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed je \u0161vestkov\u00fd kv\u011bt)<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Pom\u00edjivost \u017eivota, kr\u00e1sa, duch samuraje (mono no aware).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Chryzant\u00e9ma<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Dlouhov\u011bkost, \u0161lechta, podzim.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Dlouhov\u011bkost, omlazen\u00ed, c\u00edsa\u0159sk\u00e1 pe\u010de\u0165 Japonska.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h3>4. Srovn\u00e1vac\u00ed pohled: Sbli\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed a odli\u0161nosti<\/h3>\n<p>A\u010dkoli japonsk\u00e9 wafuku m\u00e1 sv\u016fj p\u016fvod v \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9m hanfu, tyto dv\u011b tradice se vydaly na odli\u0161n\u00e9 evolu\u010dn\u00ed cesty, co\u017e vedlo ke kroj\u016fm, kter\u00e9 se z\u00e1sadn\u011b li\u0161\u00ed strukturou a estetikou. Po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed vliv je nepopirateln\u00fd \u2013 vrstven\u00e9 r\u00f3by, zap\u00edn\u00e1n\u00ed zprava p\u0159es lev\u00e9 rameno a \u0161irok\u00e9 ruk\u00e1vy z obdob\u00ed Nara jsou p\u0159\u00edmou ozv\u011bnou m\u00f3dy z doby Tchang. Relativn\u00ed izolace Japonska v\u0161ak umo\u017enila proces zjednodu\u0161en\u00ed a stylizace.<\/p>\n<p>Nejz\u00e1sadn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed rozd\u00edl spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 ve konstrukci. Hanfu z\u016fstalo z velk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti syst\u00e9mem odd\u011blen\u00fdch svrchn\u00edch a spodn\u00edch od\u011bv\u016f nebo slo\u017eit\u011b konstruovan\u00fdch jednod\u00edln\u00fdch r\u00f3b. Naproti tomu japonsk\u00e9 wafuku se zjednodu\u0161ilo na jedinou, rovn\u011b se\u0161itou r\u00f3bu \u2013 kimono \u2013 jej\u00ed\u017e forma z\u016fstala pozoruhodn\u011b konzistentn\u00ed. Um\u011bleck\u00fd d\u016fraz se p\u0159esunul od struktur\u00e1ln\u00ed slo\u017eitosti k povrchov\u00e9 dekoraci. Silueta se tak\u00e9 odli\u0161ila. M\u00f3da z doby Tchang oslavovala plynulou, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 \u00e9terickou formu, zat\u00edmco kimono z obdob\u00ed Edo vytvo\u0159ilo sloupovit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, uzav\u0159en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed siluetu, kde se t\u011blo st\u00e1v\u00e1 pl\u00e1tnem pro l\u00e1tku, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e slo\u017eit\u00fd <em>obi<\/em> poskytuje socha\u0159sk\u00fd \u00fast\u0159edn\u00ed bod.<\/p>\n<table class=\"table table-striped table-bordered\">\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th align=\"left\">Prvek<\/th>\n<th align=\"left\">\u010c\u00ednsk\u00e9 hanfu<\/th>\n<th align=\"left\">Japonsk\u00e9 kimono (od obdob\u00ed Edo d\u00e1le)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed struktura<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">P\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b dvoud\u00edln\u00e9 (vr\u0161ek\/sukn\u011b) nebo slo\u017eit\u00e9 jednod\u00edln\u00e9 r\u00f3by.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Jedin\u00e1, ve tvaru p\u00edsmene T, rovn\u011b se\u0161it\u00e1 r\u00f3ba.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Silueta<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Li\u0161ila se podle dynastie; \u010dasto plynul\u00e1 a objemn\u00e1.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Sloupovit\u00e1 a relativn\u011b rovn\u00e1.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>\u00dast\u0159edn\u00ed bod<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Celkov\u00e1 silueta, \u0161\u00ed\u0159ka ruk\u00e1v\u016f a vrstven\u00e9 barvy.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Povrchov\u00fd vzor l\u00e1tky a slo\u017eit\u00fd obi.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>Zap\u00edn\u00e1n\u00ed<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">P\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b upevn\u011bno p\u00e1sy (<em>dai<\/em>).<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Upevn\u011bno \u0161irok\u00fdm, dekorativn\u00edm p\u00e1sem (<em>obi<\/em>) a r\u016fzn\u00fdmi \u0161\u0148\u016frami.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td align=\"left\"><strong>V\u00fdvoj<\/strong><\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Vysoce dynamick\u00fd, s v\u00fdznamn\u00fdmi zm\u011bnami mezi dynastiemi.<\/td>\n<td align=\"left\">Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed forma se standardizovala; v\u00fdvoj se zam\u011b\u0159il na vzor a dopl\u0148ky.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Starov\u011bk\u00e9 kroje \u010c\u00edny a Japonska jsou velkolep\u00fdmi archivy jejich p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00fdch kultur. \u010c\u00ednsk\u00e9 hanfu se svou dynastickou rozmanitost\u00ed a filozofick\u00fdmi z\u00e1klady vypov\u00edd\u00e1 o rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9 a pestr\u00e9 historii. Japonsk\u00e9 kimono se svou cestou od p\u0159evzat\u00e9 formy k jedine\u010dn\u011b stylizovan\u00e9mu um\u011bleck\u00e9mu p\u0159edm\u011btu odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed hlubok\u00e9 ocen\u011bn\u00ed rafinovan\u00e9 estetiky a kr\u00e1sy p\u0159\u00edrody. Ob\u011b tradice ukazuj\u00ed mistrovsk\u00e9 ovl\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed textili\u00ed a pochopen\u00ed, \u017ee to, co nos\u00edme, je mocn\u00fdm vyj\u00e1d\u0159en\u00edm toho, kdo jsme, odkud poch\u00e1z\u00edme a jak\u00e9 hodnoty si cen\u00edme. A\u010dkoli zako\u0159en\u011bn\u00e9 ve starov\u011bku, jejich elegance a symbolismus nad\u00e1le uchvacuj\u00ed a inspiruj\u00ed a slou\u017e\u00ed jako trval\u00e9 emblemy kulturn\u00ed identity v modern\u00edm sv\u011bt\u011b.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Oble\u010den\u00ed civilizace je mnohem v\u00edc ne\u017e pouh\u00e1 ochrana p\u0159ed \u017eivly; je to tkan\u00fd p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh jej\u00ed historie, soci\u00e1ln\u00ed struktury, filozofie a estetick\u00fdch hodnot. Tradi\u010dn\u00ed kroje starov\u011bk\u00e9 \u010c\u00edny a Japonska jsou obzvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b v\u00fdmluvn\u00fdmi p\u0159\u00edklady tohoto principu. Od spl\u00fdvav\u00fdch r\u00f3b u\u010denc\u016f z doby dynastie Chan po slo\u017eit\u00e9 vrstvy od\u011bvu dvorn\u00ed d\u00e1my z obdob\u00ed Heian jsou tyto od\u011bvy sv\u011bdectv\u00edm<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":163670,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37823],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-165898","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-faqs-cs","prodpage-classic"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/165898","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=165898"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/165898\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/163670"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=165898"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=165898"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=165898"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}