How to Identify Real Cashmere

Cashmere, known for its luxurious softness and warmth, is a highly sought-after fiber. Unfortunately, this popularity also means that counterfeit or low-quality products are often marketed as “pure cashmere.” Learning to distinguish genuine cashmere from imitations is crucial for ensuring you’re getting the quality you pay for. This guide will provide practical steps and insights to help you confidently identify real cashmere.

1. Understanding Cashmere Grades and Origins

The quality of cashmere is primarily determined by the diameter and length of the fibers. The finer and longer the fibers, the softer and more durable the cashmere will be. This is reflected in the grading system, which categorizes cashmere based on fiber diameter, measured in micrometers (µm).

Cashmere primarily comes from Cashmere goats, which are found in various regions, including Mongolia, China, Iran, and Afghanistan. Inner Mongolia is often considered the source of the highest quality cashmere. The harsh climate in these regions forces the goats to develop a soft, insulating undercoat, which is what’s harvested for cashmere production.

2. The Touch Test: Feeling for Softness and Texture

Genuine cashmere possesses a unique softness that’s difficult to replicate. While many synthetic fibers can feel soft initially, they often lack the depth and buttery smoothness of real cashmere.

• Softness: Run your fingers across the surface of the garment. Real cashmere should feel incredibly soft, almost like a cloud. It shouldn’t feel scratchy or itchy against the skin.
• Texture: Gently rub the fabric between your fingers. Genuine cashmere fibers will feel slightly springy and resilient, not limp or overly smooth. Synthetic fibers often feel slick and lack this subtle bounce.
• Warmth: Even a thin layer of cashmere should provide noticeable warmth. Hold the fabric against your cheek – it should feel warm almost instantly. This is due to the excellent insulating properties of the fine cashmere fibers.

3. The Visual Inspection: Examining the Fabric Closely

A careful visual examination can reveal several clues about the authenticity of cashmere.

• Pilling: While all cashmere will pill to some extent over time, excessive pilling immediately after purchase is a red flag. Genuine cashmere, especially higher-quality grades, will pill less than lower-quality cashmere or blends. The pills on real cashmere tend to be smaller and less dense than those on synthetic or mixed-fiber garments.
• Sheen: Cashmere has a subtle, natural sheen, not a shiny or glossy appearance. Synthetic fibers often have a noticeable artificial shine. Hold the garment up to the light and examine the surface – it should have a soft, matte finish with a gentle luster.
• Fiber Alignment: Examine the knit or weave closely. In genuine cashmere, the fibers tend to be more tightly and evenly aligned. Fake cashmere or blends may have a looser, more irregular appearance, with visible gaps or inconsistencies in the fabric.

4. The Burn Test (Use with Extreme Caution)

The burn test is a more definitive way to identify cashmere, but it’s also destructive and should be done with extreme caution. Only perform this test on a tiny, inconspicuous area of the garment, such as a loose thread inside a seam.

Procedure: Carefully pluck a few fibers from the garment and hold them with tweezers. Use a lighter or match to briefly expose the fibers to a flame.

Observations:

• Genuine Cashmere: Will burn slowly, curl away from the flame, and smell like burning hair (because it’s a protein fiber). It will leave a brittle, crushable ash.
• Synthetic Fibers: Will melt, burn quickly with a bright flame, and smell like burning plastic. They may leave a hard, bead-like residue.
• Wool Blends: Will exhibit characteristics of both wool and other fibers. The smell may be a mixture of burning hair and other scents, depending on the blend composition.

5. Price and Labeling: Realistic Expectations

Genuine cashmere is a luxury fiber, and its price reflects this. If a garment is labeled as “100% cashmere” but is being sold at an incredibly low price, it’s highly likely to be fake or of very poor quality.

• Price Point: Be wary of deals that seem too good to be true. While discounts are possible, genuine cashmere will always command a higher price than synthetic or blended fabrics.
• Labeling: Carefully examine the label. It should clearly state “100% Cashmere” or “Pure Cashmere.” Be skeptical of labels that say “cashmere blend,” “cashmere feel,” or “cashmere touch,” as these indicate the presence of other fibers. Although not mandatory, some manufacturers may also list the origin of the cashmere (e.g., “Inner Mongolian Cashmere”).

Authenticating cashmere requires a combination of tactile, visual, and sometimes, more extreme methods. By understanding the characteristics of genuine cashmere, paying attention to details, and being wary of unrealistic prices, you can significantly increase your chances of selecting a high-quality, authentic cashmere product. Remember that the feel of genuine cashmere against the skin is unmistakable – a soft, luxurious, and warm experience that’s worth the investment.