{"id":114769,"date":"2017-02-21T12:39:44","date_gmt":"2017-02-21T04:39:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/structure-and-properties-of-wool-fibre\/"},"modified":"2025-01-12T14:27:35","modified_gmt":"2025-01-12T22:27:35","slug":"structure-and-properties-of-wool-fibre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/structure-and-properties-of-wool-fibre\/","title":{"rendered":"C\u1ea5u tr\u00fac v\u00e0 t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t l\u00fd ho\u00e1 c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>S\u1ee3i len, m\u1ed9t s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean t\u1eeb \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt, s\u1edf h\u1eefu c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac v\u00e0 t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o t\u1ea1o n\u00ean gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 trong ng\u00e0nh d\u1ec7t may.  S\u1ef1 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, \u1ea5m \u00e1p v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1eef nhi\u1ec7t tuy\u1ec7t v\u1eddi c\u1ee7a len l\u00e0 k\u1ebft qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p \u1edf c\u1ea5p \u0111\u1ed9 vi m\u00f4 c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i.  B\u00e0i vi\u1ebft n\u00e0y s\u1ebd \u0111i s\u00e2u v\u00e0o ph\u00e2n t\u00edch c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac v\u00e0 c\u00e1c t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len.<\/p>\n<h3>1. C\u1ea5u tr\u00fac vi m\u00f4 c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len<\/h3>\n<p>S\u1ee3i len kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ee3i th\u1eb3ng, tr\u01a1n nh\u1eb5n nh\u01b0 nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i s\u1ee3i t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 c\u00f3 c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac v\u1ea3y, xo\u1eafn v\u00e0 x\u1ed1p.  Quan s\u00e1t d\u01b0\u1edbi k\u00ednh hi\u1ec3n vi, ta th\u1ea5y s\u1ee3i len bao g\u1ed3m nhi\u1ec1u t\u1ebf b\u00e0o keratin li\u00ean k\u1ebft v\u1edbi nhau. Keratin l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i protein d\u1ea1ng s\u1ee3i, gi\u00e0u l\u01b0u hu\u1ef3nh, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean \u0111\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n v\u00e0 \u0111\u00e0n h\u1ed3i cho s\u1ee3i.  C\u00e1c t\u1ebf b\u00e0o n\u00e0y x\u1ebfp ch\u1ed3ng l\u00ean nhau t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh c\u00e1c v\u1ea3y bi\u1ec3u b\u00ec (cuticle), h\u01b0\u1edbng v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda cu\u1ed1i s\u1ee3i.  Nh\u1eefng v\u1ea3y n\u00e0y ch\u1ed3ng ch\u00e9o l\u00ean nhau gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 ng\u00f3i l\u1ee3p nh\u00e0, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean \u0111\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ch\u1ed1ng th\u1ea5m n\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ecbnh cho s\u1ee3i.<\/p>\n<p>B\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi l\u1edbp bi\u1ec3u b\u00ec l\u00e0 l\u1edbp v\u1ecf (cortex), chi\u1ebfm ph\u1ea7n l\u1edbn kh\u1ed1i l\u01b0\u1ee3ng s\u1ee3i len. L\u1edbp v\u1ecf g\u1ed3m c\u00e1c t\u1ebf b\u00e0o s\u1ee3i keratin s\u1eafp x\u1ebfp theo chi\u1ec1u d\u1ecdc, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean \u0111\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n c\u01a1 h\u1ecdc c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i.  Trong l\u1edbp v\u1ecf, c\u00e1c t\u1ebf b\u00e0o keratin \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eafp x\u1ebfp theo c\u00e1c h\u01b0\u1edbng kh\u00e1c nhau, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean c\u00e1c xo\u1eafn v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 x\u1ed1p \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len. Ch\u00ednh \u0111\u1ed9 x\u1ed1p n\u00e0y g\u00f3p ph\u1ea7n v\u00e0o kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1eef nhi\u1ec7t tuy\u1ec7t v\u1eddi c\u1ee7a len.<\/p>\n<p>\u1ede trung t\u00e2m s\u1ee3i len l\u00e0 t\u1ee7y (medulla), tuy nhi\u00ean kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c s\u1ee3i len \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 t\u1ee7y. T\u1ee7y g\u1ed3m c\u00e1c t\u1ebf b\u00e0o r\u1ed7ng ho\u1eb7c ch\u1ee9a kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed, g\u00f3p ph\u1ea7n v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ed9 nh\u1eb9 v\u00e0 gi\u1eef \u1ea5m c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i.<\/p>\n<h3>2. C\u00e1c t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t v\u1eadt l\u00fd c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len<\/h3>\n<p>C\u00e1c t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t v\u1eadt l\u00fd c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp \u0111\u1ebfn ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u00e0 \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng c\u1ee7a v\u1ea3i len.  M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t quan tr\u1ecdng bao g\u1ed3m:<\/p>\n<table class=\"table table-striped table-bordered\">\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>T\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t<\/th>\n<th>M\u00f4 t\u1ea3<\/th>\n<th>\u1ea2nh h\u01b0\u1edfng<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>\u0110\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n k\u00e9o<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng ch\u1ecbu l\u1ef1c k\u00e9o tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi \u0111\u1ee9t<\/td>\n<td>Quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh \u0111\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a v\u1ea3i<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>\u0110\u1ed9 \u0111\u00e0n h\u1ed3i<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i h\u00ecnh d\u1ea1ng ban \u0111\u1ea7u sau khi b\u1ecb k\u00e9o gi\u00e3n<\/td>\n<td>T\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i v\u00e0 b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 c\u1ee7a v\u1ea3i<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>\u0110\u1ed9 h\u00fat \u1ea9m<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5 h\u01a1i n\u01b0\u1edbc t\u1eeb m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng<\/td>\n<td>Gi\u00fap \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ec9nh nhi\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ed9 c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 v\u00e0 t\u1ea1o c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c kh\u00f4 tho\u00e1ng<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>\u0110\u1ed9 gi\u1eef nhi\u1ec7t<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>Kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1eef \u1ea5m<\/td>\n<td>T\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 \u1ea5m \u00e1p v\u00e0 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td><strong>\u0110\u1ed9 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i<\/strong><\/td>\n<td>C\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c khi ch\u1ea1m v\u00e0o<\/td>\n<td>\u1ea2nh h\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i khi m\u1eb7c<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h3>3.  \u1ea2nh h\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac \u0111\u1ebfn t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t<\/h3>\n<p>C\u1ea5u tr\u00fac v\u1ea3y, xo\u1eafn v\u00e0 x\u1ed1p c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len l\u00e0 nguy\u00ean nh\u00e2n ch\u00ednh t\u1ea1o n\u00ean c\u00e1c t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng c\u1ee7a n\u00f3.  \u0110\u1ed9 x\u1ed1p gi\u00fap s\u1ee3i len gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ed9t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed \u0111\u00e1ng k\u1ec3, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1eef nhi\u1ec7t cao.  C\u00e1c v\u1ea3y bi\u1ec3u b\u00ec gi\u00fap s\u1ee3i len b\u00e1m d\u00ednh v\u00e0o nhau, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean \u0111\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 d\u1ea7y c\u1ee7a v\u1ea3i.  \u0110\u1ed9 xo\u1eafn c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i gi\u00fap v\u1ea3i len c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 \u0111\u00e0n h\u1ed3i t\u1ed1t, kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb nh\u0103n nh\u00e0u d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng.  Kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng h\u00fat \u1ea9m cao c\u1ee7a len l\u00e0 do c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac x\u1ed1p v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng h\u1ea5p th\u1ee5 n\u01b0\u1edbc c\u1ee7a protein keratin.<\/p>\n<h3>4.  Ph\u00e2n lo\u1ea1i s\u1ee3i len<\/h3>\n<p>S\u1ee3i len \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e2n lo\u1ea1i d\u1ef1a tr\u00ean ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c v\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng.  Len Merino \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1edbi \u0111\u1ed9 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i v\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng cao. Len Cashmere, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1ea5y t\u1eeb d\u00ea Cashmere, n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, nh\u1eb9 nh\u00e0ng v\u00e0 \u1ea5m \u00e1p v\u01b0\u1ee3t tr\u1ed9i.  Ngo\u00e0i ra c\u00f2n c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i len kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 len alpaca, len vicu\u00f1a, m\u1ed7i lo\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m ri\u00eang v\u1ec1 \u0111\u1ed9 m\u1ec1m, \u0111\u1ed9 b\u1ec1n v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1eef nhi\u1ec7t.<\/p>\n<p>K\u1ebft lu\u1eadn:<\/p>\n<p>C\u1ea5u tr\u00fac ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p v\u00e0 c\u00e1c t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0m n\u00ean s\u1ef1 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 trong ng\u00e0nh d\u1ec7t may.  Hi\u1ec3u r\u00f5 v\u1ec1 c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac v\u00e0 t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i len gi\u00fap ch\u00fang ta l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn v\u00e0 s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng v\u1ea3i len m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch hi\u1ec7u qu\u1ea3, t\u1eadn d\u1ee5ng t\u1ed1i \u0111a nh\u1eefng \u01b0u \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a lo\u1ea1i s\u1ee3i t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean tuy\u1ec7t v\u1eddi n\u00e0y.  T\u1eeb nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o len \u1ea5m \u00e1p cho \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u1ec7t may cao c\u1ea5p, s\u1ee3i len lu\u00f4n gi\u1eef m\u1ed9t v\u1ecb tr\u00ed quan tr\u1ecdng trong cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a con ng\u01b0\u1eddi.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>S\u1ee3i len, m\u1ed9t s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean t\u1eeb \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt, s\u1edf h\u1eefu c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac v\u00e0 t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o t\u1ea1o n\u00ean gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 trong ng\u00e0nh d\u1ec7t may. S\u1ef1 m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, \u1ea5m \u00e1p v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng gi\u1eef nhi\u1ec7t tuy\u1ec7t v\u1eddi c\u1ee7a len l\u00e0 k\u1ebft qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p \u1edf c\u1ea5p<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":49341,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37630],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114769","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-textile-vi","prodpage-classic"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/114769","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=114769"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/114769\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/49341"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=114769"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=114769"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=114769"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}