{"id":167607,"date":"2025-08-03T05:11:28","date_gmt":"2025-08-03T05:11:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/from-shanghai-to-hong-kong-the-cheongsams-journey-and-evolution\/"},"modified":"2026-02-17T22:40:07","modified_gmt":"2026-02-18T06:40:07","slug":"from-shanghai-to-hong-kong-the-cheongsams-journey-and-evolution","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/from-shanghai-to-hong-kong-the-cheongsams-journey-and-evolution\/","title":{"rendered":"T\u1eeb Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ebfn H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng: H\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a \u00e1o d\u00e0i Trung Qu\u1ed1c"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00c1o d\u00e0i<\/a>, hay c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 qipao, kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n thu\u1ea7n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y; n\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ee3i ch\u1ec9 l\u1ee5a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t xuy\u00ean su\u1ed1t l\u1ecbch s\u1eed \u0111\u1ea7y bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a Trung Qu\u1ed1c th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20. Nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t thanh l\u1ecbch v\u00e0 h\u00ecnh b\u00f3ng bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 g\u1ee3i l\u00ean h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 quy\u1ebfn r\u0169, s\u1ef1 ki\u00ean c\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t n\u1eef t\u00ednh Trung Hoa hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i r\u1ea5t ri\u00eang bi\u1ec7t. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng ng\u00e0y cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng c\u1ee7a tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i nh\u00e0 Thanh, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i nh\u01b0 ch\u00fang ta bi\u1ebft ng\u00e0y nay th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c sinh ra trong l\u00f2 n\u1ea5u qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920. Tuy nhi\u00ean, c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng k\u1ebft th\u00fac \u1edf \u0111\u00f3. B\u1ecb bu\u1ed9c ph\u1ea3i di chuy\u1ec3n b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb, trang ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0y, c\u00f9ng v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ngh\u1ec7 nh\u00e2n b\u1eadc th\u1ea7y c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, \u0111\u00e3 b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda nam \u0111\u1ebfn thu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1ecba Anh l\u00e0 H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng, n\u01a1i n\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n m\u00e0 c\u00f2n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i, t\u1eadn h\u01b0\u1edfng m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ho\u00e0ng kim th\u1ee9 hai. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 cu\u1ed9c di c\u01b0 \u0111\u00f3 – m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n k\u1ec3 v\u1ec1 c\u00e1ch m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u01a1n l\u1ebb \u0111\u00e3 th\u00edch nghi, ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a v\u00e0 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng cho tinh th\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a hai trong s\u1ed1 nh\u1eefng th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u1ea5t ch\u00e2u \u00c1.<\/p>\n

1. N\u01a1i sinh ra: Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ho\u00e0ng kim c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i (1920-1940)<\/h3>\n

Trong nh\u1eefng th\u1eadp k\u1ef7 \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20, Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i l\u00e0 “Paris c\u1ee7a ph\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0110\u00f4ng”, m\u1ed9t c\u1ea3ng th\u00f4ng \u01b0\u1edbc s\u00f4i \u0111\u1ed9ng nh\u1ed9n nh\u1ecbp v\u1edbi th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf, nh\u1eefng \u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng m\u1edbi v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i. Ch\u00ednh t\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e2y, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n t\u1eeb ti\u1ec1n th\u00e2n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, chi\u1ebfc changpao<\/em> r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i, c\u1eaft th\u1eb3ng. Khi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Trung Qu\u1ed1c, ch\u1ecbu \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng l\u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng gi\u1ea3i ph\u00f3ng v\u00e0 th\u1eddi trang ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u b\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng c\u00f4ng ch\u00fang, h\u1ecd t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c v\u1eeba hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i v\u1eeba mang \u0111\u1eadm ch\u1ea5t Trung Hoa.<\/p>\n

Chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u0111\u1ea7u t\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ed1i k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o, c\u00f3 c\u1ed5 cao, ki\u1ec3u c\u1eaft A-line r\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 tay \u00e1o r\u1ed9ng, th\u01b0\u1eddng gi\u1ed1ng v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may \u0111o nh\u1eb9 c\u1ee7a \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng. Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930, n\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u00e1ng k\u1ec3. Nh\u1eefng th\u1ee3 may Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i, ti\u1ebfp thu k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt may m\u1eb7c ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u t\u1ea1o ra chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y \u00f4m s\u00e1t, t\u00f4n l\u00ean nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean c\u1ee7a c\u01a1 th\u1ec3. H\u00ecnh b\u00f3ng tr\u1edf n\u00ean thon th\u1ea3, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb t\u00e0 b\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00e2ng cao h\u01a1n, v\u00e0 tay \u00e1o tr\u1edf n\u00ean ng\u1eafn h\u01a1n ho\u1eb7c bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1 t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 tin. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m t\u1eeb l\u1ee5a sang tr\u1ecdng, g\u1ea5m v\u00e0 nhung, v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c trang tr\u00ed b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng chi ti\u1ebft pankou<\/em> (khuy b\u1ea5m) tinh x\u1ea3o, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh trang ph\u1ee5c th\u01b0\u1eddng ng\u00e0y c\u1ee7a gi\u1edbi th\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u01b0u th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 – nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng trong x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, ng\u00f4i sao \u0111i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh, tr\u00ed th\u1ee9c v\u00e0 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
\u0110\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m<\/th>\n\u00c1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u0111\u1ea7u (kho\u1ea3ng nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920)<\/th>\n\u00c1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ec9nh cao (kho\u1ea3ng nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930-40)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
H\u00ecnh d\u00e1ng<\/strong><\/td>\nR\u1ed9ng, A-line, c\u1eaft th\u1eb3ng<\/td>\n\u00d4m s\u00e1t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, thon th\u1ea3<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
C\u1ed5 \u00e1o<\/strong><\/td>\nCao, c\u1ee9ng<\/td>\nC\u1ed5 cao, \u0111\u00f4i khi th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n \u0111\u1ec3 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Tay \u00e1o<\/strong><\/td>\nH\u00ecnh chu\u00f4ng, d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn c\u1ed5 tay ho\u1eb7c khu\u1ef7u tay<\/td>\nNg\u1eafn, tay ng\u1eafn, ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng tay<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u0110\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb t\u00e0<\/strong><\/td>\nTh\u1ea5p ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 x\u1ebb t\u00e0 b\u00ean<\/td>\nX\u1ebb t\u00e0 b\u00ean cao, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u00f9i<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u<\/strong><\/td>\nL\u1ee5a, cotton<\/td>\nL\u1ee5a nh\u1eadp kh\u1ea9u, ren, nhung, g\u1ea5m<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng<\/strong><\/td>\nS\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111ang n\u1ed5i l\u00ean, b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc h\u1eadu \u0111\u1ebf qu\u1ed1c<\/td>\nS\u1ef1 tinh t\u1ebf, quy\u1ebfn r\u0169, s\u1ef1 gi\u1ea3i ph\u00f3ng n\u1eef gi\u1edbi<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

2. Cu\u1ed9c di c\u01b0: Bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 di chuy\u1ec3n c\u1ee7a k\u1ef9 n\u0103ng<\/h3>\n

Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ho\u00e0ng kim c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb ch\u1ea5m d\u1ee9t \u0111\u1ed9t ng\u1ed9t b\u1edfi chi\u1ebfn tranh v\u00e0 c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng. Cu\u1ed9c x\u00e2m l\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ee7a Nh\u1eadt B\u1ea3n ti\u1ebfp theo l\u00e0 N\u1ed9i chi\u1ebfn Trung Qu\u1ed1c \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ec9nh \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp c\u1ee7a C\u1ed9ng h\u00f2a Nh\u00e2n d\u00e2n Trung Hoa v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1949. D\u01b0\u1edbi ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7 C\u1ed9ng s\u1ea3n m\u1edbi, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i, v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 li\u00ean t\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 suy \u0111\u1ed3i t\u01b0 s\u1ea3n v\u00e0 \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb ch\u00ednh th\u1ee9c kh\u00f4ng khuy\u1ebfn kh\u00edch. S\u1ef1 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n v\u00e0 kh\u1eafc kh\u1ed5, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n qua b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed3 “Mao” unisex, \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh l\u00fd t\u01b0\u1edfng may m\u1eb7c m\u1edbi.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed1i m\u1eb7t v\u1edbi th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb m\u1edbi n\u00e0y, m\u1ed9t l\u00e0n s\u00f3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 ch\u1ea1y tr\u1ed1n kh\u1ecfi \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c. Trong s\u1ed1 \u0111\u00f3 c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng c\u00f4ng d\u00e2n gi\u00e0u c\u00f3 nh\u1ea5t Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i, c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p, v\u00e0 quan tr\u1ecdng l\u00e0 c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng nh\u1eefng th\u1ee3 may b\u1eadc th\u1ea7y c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. H\u1ecd t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm n\u01a1i \u1ea9n n\u00e1u t\u1ea1i thu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1ecba do Anh ki\u1ec3m so\u00e1t l\u00e0 H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng, mang theo kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 c\u1ee7a c\u1ea3i m\u00e0 c\u00f2n c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng k\u1ef9 n\u0103ng v\u00e0 tay ngh\u1ec1 v\u00f4 gi\u00e1 c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. Cu\u1ed9c di c\u01b0 n\u00e0y \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o r\u1eb1ng ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt l\u00e0m \u00e1o d\u00e0i, v\u1ed1n \u0111\u1ed1i m\u1eb7t v\u1edbi nguy c\u01a1 tuy\u1ec7t ch\u1ee7ng \u1edf \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c, s\u1ebd t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y m\u1ed9t ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 m\u1edbi n\u01a1i n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i v\u00e0 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n.<\/p>\n

3. N\u01a1i tr\u00fa \u1ea9n m\u1edbi: S\u1ef1 t\u00e1i s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng (1950-1960)<\/h3>\n

\u1ede H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng th\u1eddi h\u1eadu chi\u1ebfn, nh\u1eefng th\u1ee3 may Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i di c\u01b0 \u0111\u00e3 m\u1edf c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng v\u00e0 b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 m\u1ed9t nh\u00f3m kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng m\u1edbi. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trung t\u00e2m th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i nh\u1ed9n nh\u1ecbp v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u00e3 t\u01b0 \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o c\u1ee7a v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u0110\u00f4ng T\u00e2y. T\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e2y, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1ea3i qua m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a th\u1ee9 hai, ri\u00eang bi\u1ec7t, th\u00edch nghi v\u1edbi kh\u00ed h\u1eadu, l\u1ed1i s\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 c\u1ea3m quan th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 c\u1ee7a m\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1edbi.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng tr\u1edf n\u00ean thi\u1ebft th\u1ef1c h\u01a1n v\u00e0 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt c\u1eaft may ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y. Trong khi phong c\u00e1ch Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1 th\u1eddi trang cho gi\u1edbi th\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u01b0u, th\u00ec phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t d\u1ea1ng trang ph\u1ee5c h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef t\u1eeb m\u1ecdi t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp. Nh\u1eefng bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i ch\u00ednh bao g\u1ed3m:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • T\u00edch h\u1ee3p K\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y:<\/strong> C\u00e1c th\u1ee3 may k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u1ea5n \u1edf ng\u1ef1c v\u00e0 eo \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh th\u1ec3 \u0111i\u00eau kh\u1eafc h\u01a1n, h\u00ecnh \u0111\u1ed3ng h\u1ed3 c\u00e1t, ch\u1ecbu \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a “New Look” c\u1ee7a Christian Dior \u0111ang th\u1ecbnh h\u00e0nh \u1edf ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y. Kh\u00f3a k\u00e9o th\u01b0\u1eddng thay th\u1ebf c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1edf d\u00e0i b\u00ean truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a pankou<\/em>, gi\u00fap trang ph\u1ee5c d\u1ec5 m\u1eb7c h\u01a1n.<\/li>\n
  • Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u Th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf:<\/strong> Trong khi l\u1ee5a v\u1eabn ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn cho c\u00e1c d\u1ecbp trang tr\u1ecdng, c\u00e1c th\u1ee3 may b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i b\u1ec1n h\u01a1n v\u00e0 gi\u00e1 c\u1ea3 ph\u1ea3i ch\u0103ng h\u01a1n nh\u01b0 cotton, lanh, v\u00e0 sau n\u00e0y l\u00e0 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p nh\u01b0 polyester, cho nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi kh\u00ed h\u1eadu \u1ea9m \u01b0\u1edbt c\u1ee7a H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng.<\/li>\n
  • Ki\u1ec3u c\u1eaft Nghi\u00eam ng\u1eb7t h\u01a1n:<\/strong> Chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng b\u1edfi v\u1ebb thanh l\u1ecbch t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n v\u00e0 s\u1eafc n\u00e9t h\u01a1n. H\u00ecnh d\u00e1ng s\u0103n ch\u1eafc, c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t s\u1ea1ch s\u1ebd, v\u00e0 c\u00e1c chi ti\u1ebft trang tr\u00ed th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1eef \u1edf m\u1ee9c t\u1ed1i thi\u1ec3u, t\u1eadp trung ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n v\u00e0o \u0111\u1ed9 v\u1eeba v\u1eb7n ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o v\u00e0 h\u00ecnh th\u1ec3 c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
    Kh\u00eda c\u1ea1nh<\/th>\n\u00c1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i (1930-40)<\/th>\n\u00c1o d\u00e0i H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng (1950-60)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
    \u1ea2nh h\u01b0\u1edfng Ch\u00ednh<\/strong><\/td>\nTruy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng Trung Hoa g\u1eb7p g\u1ee1 s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i Art Deco<\/td>\nK\u1ef9 n\u0103ng Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i g\u1eb7p g\u1ee1 k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt c\u1eaft may ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    \u0110\u1ed9 v\u1eeba v\u1eb7n<\/strong><\/td>\n\u00d4m s\u00e1t g\u1ee3i c\u1ea3m, c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 r\u1ee7<\/td>\n\u00d4m s\u00e1t c\u00f3 c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac, s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u1ea5n v\u00e0 kh\u00f3a k\u00e9o<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    C\u00e1ch c\u00e0i<\/strong><\/td>\nCh\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu l\u00e0 pankou<\/em> (khuy b\u1ea5m)<\/td>\nK\u1ebft h\u1ee3p gi\u1eefa pankou<\/em> v\u00e0 kh\u00f3a k\u00e9o \u1ea9n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u<\/strong><\/td>\nV\u1ea3i sang tr\u1ecdng (l\u1ee5a, nhung, ren)<\/td>\nPh\u1ea1m vi r\u1ed9ng h\u01a1n, bao g\u1ed3m cotton v\u00e0 v\u1ea3i t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    D\u1ecbp \u0111i\u1ec3n h\u00ecnh<\/strong><\/td>\nS\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng trang tr\u1ecdng<\/td>\nTrang ph\u1ee5c h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y, \u0111\u1ed3ng ph\u1ee5c l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c, s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n trang tr\u1ecdng<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng V\u0103n h\u00f3a<\/strong><\/td>\nS\u1ef1 quy\u1ebfn r\u0169 qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf, ti\u00ean phong<\/td>\nS\u1ef1 thanh l\u1ecbch th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf, b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc \u0110\u00f4ng T\u00e2y giao thoa<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

    4. \u00c1o d\u00e0i trong \u0110i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh v\u00e0 V\u0103n h\u00f3a<\/h3>\n

    \u0110i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 then ch\u1ed1t trong vi\u1ec7c c\u1ee7ng c\u1ed1 v\u1ecb th\u1ebf bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u1edf c\u1ea3 hai th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. V\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930 \u1edf Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i, c\u00e1c ng\u00f4i sao \u0111i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh nh\u01b0 Ruan Lingyu v\u00e0 Hu Die \u0111\u00e3 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn trang ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0y, bi\u1ebfn n\u00f3 th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng kh\u00e1t v\u1ecdng cho h\u00e0ng tri\u1ec7u ng\u01b0\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

    Tuy nhi\u00ean, ch\u00ednh trong \u0111i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111\u00e3 t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n \u0111i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh l\u00e2u b\u1ec1n nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. Ki\u1ec7t t\u00e1c c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea1o di\u1ec5n V\u01b0\u01a1ng Gia V\u1ec7, In the Mood for Love<\/em> (2000), th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ee9c th\u01b0 t\u00ecnh g\u1eedi \u0111\u1ebfn chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960. Nh\u00e2n v\u1eadt c\u1ee7a Maggie Cheung m\u1eb7c m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1t nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may \u0111o t\u1ec9 m\u1ec9 tuy\u1ec7t \u0111\u1eb9p, m\u1ed7i chi\u1ebfc ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh nh\u1eefng c\u1ea3m x\u00fac thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a c\u00f4. C\u1ed5 \u00e1o cao, c\u1ee9ng v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 \u00f4m s\u00e1t c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y t\u01b0\u1ee3ng tr\u01b0ng cho s\u1ef1 k\u00ecm n\u00e9n v\u00e0 duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng c\u1ee7a c\u00f4, bi\u1ebfn trang ph\u1ee5c th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t c\u00f4ng c\u1ee5 k\u1ec3 chuy\u1ec7n trung t\u00e2m. B\u1ed9 phim \u0111\u00e3 m\u1ed9t tay kh\u01a1i d\u1eady s\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i sinh to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 quan t\u00e2m \u0111\u1ebfn chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i, m\u00e3i m\u00e3i g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n n\u00f3 v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t h\u00e0o quang c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 thanh l\u1ecbch v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi gian, n\u1ed7i nh\u1edb v\u00e0 ni\u1ec1m \u0111am m\u00ea k\u00ecm n\u00e9n.<\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    5. S\u1ef1 suy t\u00e0n v\u00e0 H\u1ed3i sinh Hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i<\/h3>\n

    V\u00e0o cu\u1ed1i nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960 v\u00e0 1970, vai tr\u00f2 c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i nh\u01b0 trang ph\u1ee5c h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y \u1edf H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u suy y\u1ebfu. Th\u1eddi trang ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t h\u00e0ng lo\u1ea1t nh\u01b0 qu\u1ea7n jean, v\u00e1y ng\u1eafn v\u00e0 \u00e1o ph\u00f4ng mang l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 ti\u1ec7n l\u1ee3i h\u01a1n v\u00e0 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn th\u1ed1ng tr\u1ecb cho th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 tr\u1ebb. Chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i b\u1ecb gi\u00e1ng xu\u1ed1ng m\u1ed9t vai tr\u00f2 nghi l\u1ec5 h\u01a1n, ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c trong \u0111\u00e1m c\u01b0\u1edbi, c\u00e1c b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c trang tr\u1ecdng v\u00e0 l\u00e0m \u0111\u1ed3ng ph\u1ee5c cho nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 t\u1ea1i c\u00e1c kh\u00e1ch s\u1ea1n v\u00e0 nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng cao c\u1ea5p.<\/p>\n

    Tuy nhi\u00ean, trong v\u00e0i th\u1eadp k\u1ef7 g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y, \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i sinh \u0111\u00e1ng k\u1ec3. C\u1ea3 \u1edf \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c Trung Qu\u1ed1c v\u00e0 tr\u00ean to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u trong c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Hoa h\u1ea3i ngo\u1ea1i, c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 cao m\u1edbi v\u1ec1 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd c\u1ee7a di s\u1ea3n v\u0103n h\u00f3a. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111ang di\u1ec5n gi\u1ea3i l\u1ea1i h\u00ecnh d\u00e1ng c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n v\u1edbi ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i, ki\u1ec3u c\u1eaft m\u1edbi v\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o. C\u00e1c c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111am m\u00ea v\u00e0 n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng tr\u1ef1c tuy\u1ebfn, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 PandaSilk.com, \u0111\u00f3ng m\u1ed9t vai tr\u00f2 quan tr\u1ecdng trong s\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i sinh n\u00e0y b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch ghi l\u1ea1i l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a trang ph\u1ee5c, chia s\u1ebb k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt may v\u00e0 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t kh\u00f4ng gian \u0111\u1ec3 th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 m\u1edbi k\u1ebft n\u1ed1i v\u1edbi di s\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. Chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 c\u1ed5 t\u00f2 m\u00f2; n\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ee9c tranh v\u1ebd cho s\u1ef1 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n.<\/p>\n

    H\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng ph\u00f2ng khi\u00eau v\u0169 c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u1eefng con ph\u1ed1 nh\u1ed9n nh\u1ecbp c\u1ee7a H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u00e9p \u1ea9n d\u1ee5 m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd cho s\u1ef1 ki\u00ean c\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1ee7a v\u0103n h\u00f3a. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 c\u00e1ch ngh\u1ec1 th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng v\u00e0 truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, khi \u0111\u1ed1i m\u1eb7t v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 di d\u1eddi, \u0111\u00e3 kh\u00f4ng bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t m\u00e0 thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 th\u00edch nghi, ti\u1ebfp thu nh\u1eefng \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng m\u1edbi v\u00e0 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t c\u00e1i g\u00ec \u0111\u00f3 m\u1edbi m\u1ebb v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb9p \u0111\u1ebd. Chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t di t\u00edch t\u0129nh c\u1ee7a qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng, nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t thanh l\u1ecbch c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 mang theo s\u1ee9c n\u1eb7ng c\u1ee7a l\u1ecbch s\u1eed, tinh th\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi v\u00e0 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc l\u00e2u b\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Trung Qu\u1ed1c tr\u00ean kh\u1eafp th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. S\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c, \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o r\u1eb1ng s\u1ee3i ch\u1ec9 l\u1ee5a c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 s\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t v\u00e0o t\u1ea5m v\u1ea3i c\u1ee7a t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    \u00c1o d\u00e0i, hay c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 qipao, kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01a1n thu\u1ea7n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y; n\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ee3i ch\u1ec9 l\u1ee5a \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t xuy\u00ean su\u1ed1t l\u1ecbch s\u1eed \u0111\u1ea7y bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a Trung Qu\u1ed1c th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20. Nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t thanh l\u1ecbch v\u00e0 h\u00ecnh b\u00f3ng bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 g\u1ee3i l\u00ean h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 quy\u1ebfn<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":163695,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37730],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-167607","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-faqs-vi","prodpage-classic"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/167607","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=167607"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/167607\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/163695"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=167607"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=167607"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=167607"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}