{"id":167629,"date":"2025-08-03T01:48:44","date_gmt":"2025-08-03T01:48:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/shanghai-the-origin-of-modern-chinese-cheongsam-dresses\/"},"modified":"2026-02-17T22:40:49","modified_gmt":"2026-02-18T06:40:49","slug":"shanghai-the-origin-of-modern-chinese-cheongsam-dresses","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/shanghai-the-origin-of-modern-chinese-cheongsam-dresses\/","title":{"rendered":"Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i: Ngu\u1ed3n G\u1ed1c C\u1ee7a \u00c1o D\u00e0i Trung Qu\u1ed1c Hi\u1ec7n \u0110\u1ea1i"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00c1o d\u00e0i<\/a>, hay c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 qipao, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng trang ph\u1ee5c mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u00e0 g\u1ee3i c\u1ea3m nh\u1ea5t tr\u00ean th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. Bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng, n\u1eef t\u00ednh v\u00e0 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc v\u0103n h\u00f3a Trung Hoa, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft \u00f4m s\u00e1t v\u00e0 c\u00e1c chi ti\u1ebft tinh t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eadn ra ngay l\u1eadp t\u1ee9c. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c l\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb t\u1ed9c ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u th\u1eddi nh\u00e0 Thanh, nh\u01b0ng h\u00ecnh d\u00e1ng m\u00e0 ch\u00fang ta bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn ng\u00e0y nay\u2014chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y \u00f4m s\u00e1t, tinh t\u1ebf \u0111\u00e3 thu h\u00fat c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea1o di\u1ec5n \u0111i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh\u2014kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m c\u1ee7a Trung Qu\u1ed1c phong ki\u1ebfn c\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ea1i. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c sinh ra trong c\u01a1n l\u1ed1c c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i \u1edf Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920 v\u00e0 1930. \u0110\u00f4 th\u1ecb s\u1ea7m u\u1ea5t n\u00e0y, “Paris c\u1ee7a ph\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0110\u00f4ng”, \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh n\u01a1i giao thoa gi\u1eefa truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i, n\u01a1i chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng r\u1ed9ng th\u00f9ng th\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i tri\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ec3 th\u00e0nh trang ph\u1ee5c hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i ti\u00eau bi\u1ec3u c\u1ee7a Trung Qu\u1ed1c.<\/p>\n

1. T\u1eeb \u00c1o Ho\u00e0ng Gia \u0111\u1ebfn Trang Ph\u1ee5c D\u00e2n Qu\u1ed1c<\/h3>\n

\u0110\u1ec3 hi\u1ec3u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ednh c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng c\u1ee7a \u00e1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i, tr\u01b0\u1edbc ti\u00ean ph\u1ea3i nh\u00ecn v\u00e0o ti\u1ec1n th\u00e2n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. Chi\u1ebfc qipao<\/em> nguy\u00ean b\u1ea3n (c\u00f3 ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 “\u00e1o c\u1edd”) l\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u trong tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i nh\u00e0 Thanh (1644-1912). Trang ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng h\u1ec1 \u00f4m s\u00e1t. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng r\u1ed9ng, th\u1eb3ng, d\u00e1ng ch\u1eef A \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ec3 che k\u00edn ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n c\u01a1 th\u1ec3. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m t\u1eeb l\u1ee5a d\u00e0y v\u00e0 b\u00f4ng, n\u00f3 c\u00f3 tay d\u00e0i, c\u1ed5 cao v\u00e0 x\u1ebb th\u1eb3ng xu\u1ed1ng m\u1eaft c\u00e1 ch\u00e2n, m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 bi\u1ec3u th\u1ecb \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb v\u00e0 d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c h\u01a1n l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f4n l\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong n\u1eef t\u00ednh.<\/p>\n

V\u1edbi s\u1ef1 s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 c\u1ee7a tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i nh\u00e0 Thanh v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1912 v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp c\u1ee7a Trung Hoa D\u00e2n Qu\u1ed1c, \u0111\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc b\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed9ng ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a d\u1eef d\u1ed9i. \u0110\u00e3 c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t phong tr\u00e0o r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i \u0111\u1ec3 lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf c\u00e1c bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng ho\u00e0ng gia c\u0169 v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfp thu hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef c\u00f3 h\u1ecdc th\u1ee9c v\u00e0 sinh vi\u00ean b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u m\u1eb7c m\u1ed9t phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn, \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u, l\u00e0m th\u1eb3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft v\u00e0 \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n h\u00f3a c\u00e1c h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft trang tr\u00ed. Phi\u00ean b\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1eddi D\u00e2n qu\u1ed1c n\u00e0y v\u1eabn c\u00f2n r\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 \u0111o\u1ea1n tuy\u1ec7t c\u00f3 \u00fd th\u1ee9c v\u1edbi qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 phong ki\u1ebfn, tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 gi\u1ea3i ph\u00f3ng ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef v\u00e0 tr\u00ed th\u1ee9c. Ch\u00ednh trang ph\u1ee5c chuy\u1ec3n ti\u1ebfp n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ebfn Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i, s\u1eb5n s\u00e0ng cho s\u1ef1 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng c\u1ee7a n\u00f3.<\/p>\n

2. Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i: N\u01a1i Luy\u1ec7n Kim c\u1ee7a S\u1ef1 Hi\u1ec7n \u0110\u1ea1i<\/h3>\n

Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0o c\u00f3 v\u1ecb th\u1ebf t\u1ed1t h\u01a1n \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00e1i t\u1ea1o l\u1ea1i chi\u1ebfc qipao so v\u1edbi Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920. L\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u1ea3ng th\u00f4ng \u01b0\u1edbc l\u1edbn, \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trung t\u00e2m si\u00eau qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf v\u1ec1 th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i, t\u00e0i ch\u00ednh v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng t\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u1ea3n r\u00f5 r\u1ec7t, n\u01a1i truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng Trung Hoa va ch\u1ea1m v\u1edbi \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y t\u1eeb Anh, Ph\u00e1p v\u00e0 M\u1ef9. M\u00f4i tr\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t b\u1ea7u kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m v\u00e0 tinh t\u1ebf ch\u01b0a t\u1eebng c\u00f3.<\/p>\n

Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i \u0111\u1ea7u trong s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i n\u00e0y. “C\u00f4 g\u00e1i Hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i” hay modeng xiaojie<\/em> xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t m\u1eabu h\u00ecnh x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i m\u1edbi. C\u00f4 \u1ea5y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u00e1o d\u1ee5c, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp v\u1ec1 t\u00e0i ch\u00ednh v\u00e0 tham gia v\u00e0o \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng c\u00f4ng c\u1ed9ng. C\u00f4 \u1ea5y th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean lui t\u1edbi c\u00e1c qu\u00e1n c\u00e0 ph\u00ea, v\u0169 tr\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e0 r\u1ea1p chi\u1ebfu phim, v\u00e0 nh\u1eadn th\u1ee9c r\u00f5 v\u1ec1 c\u00e1c xu h\u01b0\u1edbng th\u1eddi trang qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf. C\u00f4 \u1ea5y nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y flapper c\u1ee7a ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y v\u1edbi ph\u1ea7n eo h\u1ea1 th\u1ea5p v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t t\u1ef1 do v\u00e0 t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc Trung Qu\u1ed1c hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a ch\u00ednh m\u00ecnh v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 phong c\u00e1ch t\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1. Chi\u1ebfc qipao r\u1ed9ng th\u00f9ng th\u00ecnh l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t t\u1ea5m v\u1ea3i tr\u1eafng, v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u1ee3 may b\u1eadc th\u1ea7y c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ngh\u1ec7 s\u0129 s\u1ebd v\u1ebd l\u1ea1i n\u00f3.<\/p>\n

3. S\u1ef1 Bi\u1ebfn H\u00ecnh: T\u1ea1o D\u00e1ng Silhouette Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i<\/h3>\n

S\u1ef1 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u1edf Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920 v\u00e0 30 di\u1ec5n ra nhanh ch\u00f3ng v\u00e0 m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd. C\u00e1c th\u1ee3 may b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p c\u00e1c k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt c\u1eaft may ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebfp ly v\u00e0 tay \u00e1o r\u00e1p, \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c \u00f4m theo \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean c\u1ee7a c\u01a1 th\u1ec3. S\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c chia th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i ch\u00ednh:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • D\u00e1ng \u00e1o (Silhouette):<\/strong> \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft r\u1ed9ng, d\u00e1ng ch\u1eef A b\u1ecb lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf \u0111\u1ec3 \u1ee7ng h\u1ed9 m\u1ed9t d\u00e1ng \u00e1o \u00f4m s\u00e1t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, t\u00f4n l\u00ean v\u00f2ng eo, h\u00f4ng v\u00e0 ng\u1ef1c.<\/li>\n
  • \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb:<\/strong> C\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb b\u00ean ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng c\u0169 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00e2ng l\u00ean, tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb b\u00ean cao t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1 th\u1eddi trang ch\u1ecbu \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a v\u00e1y d\u1ea1 h\u1ed9i ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn thi\u1ebft th\u1ef1c gi\u00fap t\u0103ng kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng v\u1eadn \u0111\u1ed9ng trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/li>\n
  • Tay \u00e1o v\u00e0 C\u1ed5 \u00e1o:<\/strong> Tay \u00e1o tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh tr\u1ecdng t\u00e2m c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i. Ch\u00fang c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u ki\u1ec3u d\u00e1ng t\u1eeb d\u00e0i h\u00ecnh chu\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ebfn ng\u1eafn, tay \u00e1p, ho\u1eb7c ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n kh\u00f4ng tay cho m\u00f9a h\u00e8. C\u1ed5 \u00e1o, trong khi v\u1eabn gi\u1eef phong c\u00e1ch c\u1ed5 tr\u00f2n truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, tr\u1edf n\u00ean cao h\u01a1n v\u00e0 c\u1ee9ng h\u01a1n, k\u00e9o d\u00e0i c\u1ed5 v\u00e0 t\u0103ng th\u00eam v\u1ebb thanh l\u1ecbch trang tr\u1ecdng.<\/li>\n
  • Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u v\u00e0 Trang tr\u00ed:<\/strong> V\u1ecb th\u1ebf l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u1ea3ng to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u00e3 cho c\u00e1c th\u1ee3 may ti\u1ebfp c\u1eadn v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1t c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i ch\u01b0a t\u1eebng c\u00f3. L\u1ee5a truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi nhung, ren, georgette v\u00e0 rayon in nh\u1eadp kh\u1ea9u. Chi ti\u1ebft trang tr\u00ed bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng pankou<\/em>, hay khuy b\u1ea5m, v\u1eabn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 trang tr\u00ed ch\u00ednh, nh\u01b0ng ch\u00fang tr\u1edf n\u00ean ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p h\u01a1n v\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi kh\u00f3a k\u00e9o hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ec3 v\u1eeba v\u1eb7n h\u01a1n.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    B\u1ea3ng d\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u00e2y l\u00e0m n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t ch\u00ednh gi\u1eefa \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 \u00e1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
    \u0110\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m<\/th>\nQipao M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u Truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng (Tr\u01b0\u1edbc 1912)<\/th>\n\u00c1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i Hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i (Kho\u1ea3ng nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
    D\u00e1ng \u00e1o (Silhouette)<\/strong><\/td>\nR\u1ed9ng, d\u00e1ng ch\u1eef A, c\u1eaft th\u1eb3ng<\/td>\n\u00d4m s\u00e1t, theo \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, may c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebfp ly<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    \u0110\u1ed9 d\u00e0i<\/strong><\/td>\nD\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1eaft c\u00e1 ch\u00e2n<\/td>\nThay \u0111\u1ed5i t\u1eeb m\u1eaft c\u00e1 ch\u00e2n \u0111\u1ebfn ngay d\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Tay \u00e1o<\/strong><\/td>\nD\u00e0i v\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng<\/td>\n\u0110a d\u1ea1ng: d\u00e0i, ba ph\u1ea7n t\u01b0, ng\u1eafn, tay \u00e1p, ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng tay<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb b\u00ean<\/strong><\/td>\nTh\u1ea5p, x\u1ebb ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng<\/td>\nCao, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u00f9i, v\u00ec phong c\u00e1ch v\u00e0 d\u1ec5 v\u1eadn \u0111\u1ed9ng<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u<\/strong><\/td>\nL\u1ee5a d\u00e0y, b\u00f4ng, g\u1ea5m<\/td>\n\u0110a d\u1ea1ng: l\u1ee5a, nhung, ren, rayon, v\u1ea3i in<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng V\u0103n h\u00f3a<\/strong><\/td>\nB\u1ea3n s\u1eafc d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u, \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb phong ki\u1ebfn<\/td>\nS\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i, gi\u1ea3i ph\u00f3ng ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef, ni\u1ec1m t\u1ef1 h\u00e0o d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

    4. Th\u1eddi Ho\u00e0ng Kim v\u00e0 Nh\u1eefng Bi\u1ec3u T\u01b0\u1ee3ng<\/h3>\n

    Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930 \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u Th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i Ho\u00e0ng kim c\u1ee7a \u00e1o d\u00e0i. N\u00f3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh trang ph\u1ee5c th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb thu\u1ed9c m\u1ecdi t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp \u1edf Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i, t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng trong gi\u1edbi th\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u01b0u v\u00e0 ng\u00f4i sao \u0111i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean v\u0103n ph\u00f2ng v\u00e0 sinh vi\u00ean. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i, nh\u01b0 n\u1eef di\u1ec5n vi\u00ean Ruan Lingyu, ca s\u0129 Zhou Xuan, v\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng trong x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, \u0111\u1ec7 nh\u1ea5t phu nh\u00e2n Madame Wellington Koo, \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ea1i s\u1ee9 phong c\u00e1ch cho trang ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0y. Ch\u00e2n dung v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n tr\u00ean phim c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd \u0111\u00e3 c\u1ee7ng c\u1ed1 h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh c\u1ee7a \u00e1o d\u00e0i nh\u01b0 \u0111\u1ec9nh cao c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 quy\u1ebfn r\u0169 v\u00e0 tinh t\u1ebf.<\/p>\n

    Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 n\u00e0y c\u0169ng c\u1ee7ng c\u1ed1 t\u1ea7m quan tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a vi\u1ec7c may \u0111o ri\u00eang. M\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u00edch th\u1ef1c kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 may s\u1eb5n; n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m ri\u00eang b\u1edfi m\u1ed9t th\u1ee3 may b\u1eadc th\u1ea7y, ng\u01b0\u1eddi s\u1ebd \u0111o \u0111\u1ea1c t\u1ec9 m\u1ec9 \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o \u0111\u1ed9 v\u1eeba v\u1eb7n ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o nh\u01b0 g\u0103ng tay. S\u1ef1 t\u1eadn t\u00e2m v\u1edbi ngh\u1ec1 th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng n\u00e0y l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t di s\u1ea3n ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c truy\u1ec1n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng cho c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ea1i. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111am m\u00ea v\u00e0 th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u t\u00ecm c\u00e1ch hi\u1ec3u di s\u1ea3n n\u00e0y, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y tr\u00ean c\u00e1c n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng nh\u01b0 PandaSilk.com, th\u01b0\u1eddng nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u c\u00e1c m\u1eabu v\u00e0 k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ho\u00e0n thi\u1ec7n b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u1ee3 may huy\u1ec1n tho\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i trong th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 n\u00e0y.<\/p>\n

    5. Suy T\u00e0n, Di C\u01b0 v\u00e0 B\u1ea3o T\u1ed3n<\/h3>\n

    Th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea1i Ho\u00e0ng kim k\u1ebft th\u00fac \u0111\u1ed9t ng\u1ed9t v\u1edbi Chi\u1ebfn tranh Trung-Nh\u1eadt l\u1ea7n th\u1ee9 hai v\u00e0 cu\u1ed9c C\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng C\u1ed9ng s\u1ea3n ti\u1ebfp theo v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1949. \u1ede Trung Qu\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c, \u00e1o d\u00e0i b\u1ecb l\u00ean \u00e1n l\u00e0 t\u01b0 s\u1ea3n v\u00e0 suy \u0111\u1ed3i, m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 t\u01b0 b\u1ea3n. Trang ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0y g\u1ea7n nh\u01b0 bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t kh\u1ecfi \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng c\u00f4ng ch\u00fang trong nhi\u1ec1u th\u1eadp k\u1ef7.<\/p>\n

    Tuy nhi\u00ean, phong c\u00e1ch n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ebft. Nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ee3 may l\u00e0nh ngh\u1ec1 nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u00e3 ch\u1ea1y sang H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng, \u0110\u00e0i Loan v\u00e0 Singapore, mang theo ngh\u1ec1 c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh trung t\u00e2m s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t \u00e1o d\u00e0i m\u1edbi, b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng n\u00e0y qua nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1950 v\u00e0 60. Nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 phim bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea1o di\u1ec5n V\u01b0\u01a1ng Gia V\u1ec7, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 “T\u00e2m Tr\u1ea1ng Khi Y\u00eau” (2000), \u0111\u00e3 m\u1ed9t m\u00ecnh kh\u01a1i d\u1eady s\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i sinh to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u v\u1ec1 m\u1ed1i quan t\u00e2m \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi \u00e1o d\u00e0i, th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n s\u1ef1 g\u1ee3i c\u1ea3m v\u00e0 thanh l\u1ecbch v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi gian c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 qua l\u0103ng k\u00ednh H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960, m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u1eeba k\u1ebf tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp c\u1ee7a phong c\u00e1ch Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i.<\/p>\n

    S\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a v\u00e0 lan r\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y qua c\u00e1c th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
    Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3<\/th>\nPh\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n Ch\u00ednh<\/th>\nB\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh V\u0103n h\u00f3a<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
    Nh\u00e0 Thanh<\/strong><\/td>\n\u00c1o cho\u00e0ng M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u r\u1ed9ng, d\u00e1ng ch\u1eef A (qipao<\/em>)<\/td>\nBi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 cai tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a ho\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ebf.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920<\/strong><\/td>\nThu g\u1ecdn d\u00e1ng \u00e1o, \u00e1p d\u1ee5ng k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt c\u1eaft may ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y.<\/td>\nTh\u1eddi k\u1ef3 h\u1eadu \u0111\u1ebf qu\u1ed1c, \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a “C\u00f4 g\u00e1i Hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i”.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930-40<\/strong><\/td>\n“Th\u1eddi Ho\u00e0ng Kim”, \u00f4m s\u00e1t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, phong c\u00e1ch \u0111a d\u1ea1ng.<\/td>\n\u0110\u1ec9nh cao c\u1ee7a t\u00ednh qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf \u1edf Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i; trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1950-70<\/strong><\/td>\nSuy t\u00e0n \u1edf Trung Qu\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c; \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n \u1edf H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng\/\u0110\u00e0i Loan.<\/td>\nC\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng C\u1ed9ng s\u1ea3n; di c\u01b0 th\u1eddi Chi\u1ebfn tranh L\u1ea1nh.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1980-Hi\u1ec7n t\u1ea1i<\/strong><\/td>\nH\u1ed3i sinh \u1edf Trung Qu\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c; \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng th\u1eddi trang to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u.<\/td>\nC\u1ea3i c\u00e1ch kinh t\u1ebf; \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00f4ng nh\u1eadn l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a di s\u1ea3n v\u0103n h\u00f3a.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

    C\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 t\u00e1ch r\u1eddi v\u1edbi c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 20. Ch\u00ednh trong th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u0103ng \u0111\u1ed9ng, h\u01b0\u1edbng t\u1edbi t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai n\u00e0y, m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng ho\u00e0ng gia \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd v\u1ec1 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. \u00c1o d\u00e0i Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 t\u1ed5ng h\u1ee3p ho\u00e0n h\u1ea3o gi\u1eefa \u0110\u00f4ng v\u00e0 T\u00e2y, truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi, s\u1ef1 khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n v\u00e0 s\u1ee9c h\u00fat. N\u00f3 n\u1eafm b\u1eaft \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tinh th\u1ea7n c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecba \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o, th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n s\u1ef1 t\u1ef1 tin v\u00e0 duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Trung Qu\u1ed1c hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. M\u1eb7c d\u00f9 n\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1ea3i qua nh\u1eefng th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 suy t\u00e0n v\u00e0 h\u1ed3i sinh, nh\u01b0ng d\u00e1ng \u00e1o c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3\u2014d\u00e1ng \u00e1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ea1o ra b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u1ee3 may b\u1eadc th\u1ea7y c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i\u2014v\u1eabn l\u00e0 h\u00ecnh d\u00e1ng b\u1ec1n v\u1eefng v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00f4ng nh\u1eadn to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u, m\u1ed9t minh ch\u1ee9ng v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi gian cho th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 \u0111\u00e3 ban cho n\u00f3 linh h\u1ed3n.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    \u00c1o d\u00e0i, hay c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 qipao, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng trang ph\u1ee5c mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u00e0 g\u1ee3i c\u1ea3m nh\u1ea5t tr\u00ean th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. Bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng, n\u1eef t\u00ednh v\u00e0 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc v\u0103n h\u00f3a Trung Hoa, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft \u00f4m s\u00e1t v\u00e0 c\u00e1c chi ti\u1ebft tinh t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eadn<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":163694,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37730],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-167629","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-faqs-vi","prodpage-classic"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/167629","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=167629"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/167629\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/163694"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=167629"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=167629"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=167629"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}