{"id":167655,"date":"2025-08-03T00:51:09","date_gmt":"2025-08-03T00:51:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/evolution-of-cheongsam-qipao\/"},"modified":"2026-02-17T22:40:02","modified_gmt":"2026-02-18T06:40:02","slug":"evolution-of-cheongsam-qipao","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/evolution-of-cheongsam-qipao\/","title":{"rendered":"S\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a \u00e1o d\u00e0i (Qipao)"},"content":{"rendered":"

S\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m<\/a>, hay c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 qipao, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng trang ph\u1ee5c mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u00e0 d\u1ec5 nh\u1eadn bi\u1ebft nh\u1ea5t tr\u00ean th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. V\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft d\u00e1ng thanh l\u1ecbch, c\u1ed5 cao ki\u1ec3u Mandarin v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng chi ti\u1ebft c\u00e0i khuy tinh x\u1ea3o, n\u00f3 l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd c\u1ee7a n\u1eef t\u00ednh v\u00e0 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc v\u0103n h\u00f3a Trung Hoa. Tuy nhi\u00ean, chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y m\u00e0 ch\u00fang ta bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn ng\u00e0y nay l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o t\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ed1i hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i, l\u00e0 k\u1ebft qu\u1ea3 c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh nh\u1eefng bi\u1ebfn chuy\u1ec3n s\u00e2u s\u1eafc v\u1ec1 x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a Trung Qu\u1ed1c trong su\u1ed1t th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 qua. H\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 t\u1eeb m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ed9t tuy\u00ean ng\u00f4n th\u1eddi trang \u00f4m s\u00e1t to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 g\u1eb7p g\u1ee1 gi\u1eefa truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i, v\u00e0 v\u1ec1 s\u1ee9c m\u1ea1nh c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c trong vi\u1ec7c ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t qu\u1ed1c gia. B\u00e0i vi\u1ebft n\u00e0y \u0111i s\u00e2u v\u00e0o l\u1ecbch s\u1eed phong ph\u00fa c\u1ee7a s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m, l\u1ea7n theo s\u1ef1 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 qua nh\u1eefng thay \u0111\u1ed5i tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i, c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng d\u00e2n qu\u1ed1c, v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i sinh cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t di s\u1ea3n v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi gian.<\/p>\n

1. Ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c t\u1eeb th\u1eddi nh\u00e0 Thanh (1644-1912)<\/h3>\n

Ngu\u1ed3n g\u1ed1c c\u1ee7a s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i nh\u00e0 Thanh, do ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u t\u1eeb v\u00f9ng \u0110\u00f4ng B\u1eafc th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp. Ch\u00ednh t\u00ean g\u1ecdi “qipao” (\u65d7\u888d) c\u00f3 ngh\u0129a l\u00e0 “\u00e1o c\u1edd”, \u00e1m ch\u1ec9 tr\u1ef1c ti\u1ebfp \u0111\u1ebfn “H\u1ec7 th\u1ed1ng B\u00e1t K\u1ef3” (\u516b\u65d7) c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u, m\u1ed9t c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i v\u00e0 qu\u00e2n s\u1ef1. Trang ph\u1ee5c nguy\u00ean b\u1ea3n, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 changpao<\/em> (\u957f\u888d), \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3 nam v\u00e0 n\u1eef ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u m\u1eb7c. N\u00f3 kh\u00e1c xa so v\u1edbi chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y \u00f4m s\u00e1t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng n\u0103m sau n\u00e0y.<\/p>\n

\"Manchu<\/p>\n

Chi\u1ebfc qipao ban \u0111\u1ea7u l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng d\u00e0i, d\u00e1ng ch\u1eef A, r\u1ee7 th\u1eb3ng t\u1eeb vai, che k\u00edn ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c. N\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf cho m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf, ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi l\u1ed1i s\u1ed1ng c\u01b0\u1ee1i ng\u1ef1a v\u00e0 kh\u00ed h\u1eadu l\u1ea1nh gi\u00e1 c\u1ee7a qu\u00ea h\u01b0\u01a1ng M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u. C\u00e1c \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m ch\u00ednh c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 bao g\u1ed3m \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft th\u1eb3ng, tay \u00e1o d\u00e0i v\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng, v\u00e0 chi\u1ec1u d\u00e0i ch\u1ea1m \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1eaft c\u00e1 ch\u00e2n. N\u00f3 th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m t\u1eeb c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u b\u1ec1n ch\u1eafc nh\u01b0 l\u1ee5a, cotton ho\u1eb7c v\u1ea3i l\u00f3t l\u00f4ng v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1t khuy g\u00e0i \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecdc theo b\u00ean ph\u1ea3i. Trang ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o; n\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd c\u1ee7a b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u00e1p \u0111\u1eb7t l\u00ean ng\u01b0\u1eddi H\u00e1n trong th\u1eddi nh\u00e0 Thanh nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t d\u1ea5u hi\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a l\u00f2ng trung th\u00e0nh v\u1edbi tri\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ea1i cai tr\u1ecb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
\u0110\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m<\/th>\nQipao\/Changpao nguy\u00ean b\u1ea3n th\u1eddi nh\u00e0 Thanh<\/th>\nS\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i (Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ho\u00e0ng kim)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
D\u00e1ng \u00e1o<\/strong><\/td>\nR\u1ed9ng, d\u00e1ng ch\u1eef A, c\u1eaft th\u1eb3ng<\/td>\n\u00d4m s\u00e1t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Chi\u1ec1u d\u00e0i<\/strong><\/td>\nD\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1eaft c\u00e1 ch\u00e2n ho\u1eb7c h\u01a1n<\/td>\n\u0110a d\u1ea1ng (d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn b\u1eafp ch\u00e2n, \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u00f9i)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Tay \u00e1o<\/strong><\/td>\nD\u00e0i v\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng<\/td>\nKh\u00f4ng tay, tay ng\u1eafn ho\u1eb7c tay ph\u1ed3ng<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\u0110\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb<\/strong><\/td>\nX\u1ebb th\u1ea5p hai b\u00ean \u0111\u1ec3 d\u1ec5 v\u1eadn \u0111\u1ed9ng (c\u01b0\u1ee1i ng\u1ef1a)<\/td>\nX\u1ebb cao hai b\u00ean \u0111\u1ec3 t\u0103ng s\u1ee9c h\u00fat v\u00e0 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u<\/strong><\/td>\nL\u1ee5a d\u00e0y, cotton, v\u1ea3i l\u00f3t l\u00f4ng<\/td>\nL\u1ee5a m\u1ecfng, satin, g\u1ea5m, ren, cotton<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
M\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch<\/strong><\/td>\nM\u1eb7c h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y, bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u<\/td>\nBi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i, trang ph\u1ee5c trang tr\u1ecdng<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

2. Trung Hoa D\u00e2n Qu\u1ed1c v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 ra \u0111\u1eddi c\u1ee7a S\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i (Th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1910-1920)<\/h3>\n

S\u1ef1 s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5 c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 Thanh n\u0103m 1912 v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp Trung Hoa D\u00e2n Qu\u1ed1c \u0111\u00e3 m\u1edf ra m\u1ed9t k\u1ef7 nguy\u00ean thay \u0111\u1ed5i s\u00e2u s\u1eafc. \u0110\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc b\u1ecb cu\u1ed1n v\u00e0o Phong tr\u00e0o V\u0103n h\u00f3a M\u1edbi, \u1ee7ng h\u1ed9 c\u00e1c kh\u00e1i ni\u1ec7m ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y v\u1ec1 khoa h\u1ecdc, d\u00e2n ch\u1ee7 v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 do c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n, bao g\u1ed3m c\u1ea3 gi\u1ea3i ph\u00f3ng ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef. Khi c\u00e1c c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac \u0111\u1ebf qu\u1ed1c c\u0169 s\u1ee5p \u0111\u1ed5, nh\u1eefng quy t\u1eafc trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee9ng nh\u1eafc g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi ch\u00fang c\u0169ng tan bi\u1ebfn.<\/p>\n

Ch\u00ednh tr\u00ean m\u1ea3nh \u0111\u1ea5t m\u00e0u m\u1ee1 c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i n\u00e0y, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 \u1edf c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 s\u1ea7m u\u1ea5t nh\u01b0 Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i v\u00e0 B\u1eafc Kinh, s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e3 ra \u0111\u1eddi. Nh\u1eefng ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef c\u00f3 h\u1ecdc th\u1ee9c, sinh vi\u00ean v\u00e0 c\u01b0 d\u00e2n \u0111\u00f4 th\u1ecb t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm m\u1ed9t phong c\u00e1ch trang ph\u1ee5c m\u1edbi ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. H\u1ecd b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ea3i bi\u00ean chi\u1ebfc changpao<\/em> c\u0169. Nh\u1eefng s\u1eeda \u0111\u1ed5i \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean r\u1ea5t tinh t\u1ebf. D\u00e1ng \u00e1o tr\u1edf n\u00ean thon g\u1ecdn h\u01a1n, m\u1eb7c d\u00f9 v\u1eabn c\u00f2n t\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ed1i r\u1ed9ng so v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng g\u00ec s\u1ebd \u0111\u1ebfn sau n\u00e0y. Trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n h\u00f3a, v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng tay \u00e1o r\u1ed9ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thu h\u1eb9p l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft t\u1ed5ng th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n h\u00f3a. Chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y li\u1ec1n th\u00e2n m\u1edbi n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf v\u00e0 thanh l\u1ecbch thay th\u1ebf cho b\u1ed9 aoqun<\/em> (\u00e1o v\u00e0 v\u00e1y) truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng hai m\u1ea3nh m\u00e0 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef H\u00e1n m\u1eb7c. N\u00f3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a “c\u00f4 g\u00e1i hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i”, \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho h\u1ecdc v\u1ea5n, s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed9c l\u1eadp v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u0111o\u1ea1n tuy\u1ec7t v\u1edbi truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng phong ki\u1ebfn.<\/p>\n

3. Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ho\u00e0ng kim c\u1ee7a Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i (Th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1930-1940)<\/h3>\n

Th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1930 v\u00e0 1940 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ho\u00e0ng kim c\u1ee7a s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m, v\u1edbi Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i l\u00e0 trung t\u00e2m kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 tranh c\u00e3i. L\u00e0 “Paris c\u1ee7a ph\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0110\u00f4ng”, Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i l\u00e0 n\u01a1i h\u1ed9i t\u1ee5 c\u1ee7a v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u0110\u00f4ng T\u00e2y, v\u00e0 c\u1ea3nh th\u1eddi trang n\u01a1i \u0111\u00e2y v\u00f4 c\u00f9ng s\u00f4i \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u00e0 s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o. T\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e2y, s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1ea3i qua s\u1ef1 bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd nh\u1ea5t, ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n th\u00e0nh chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, g\u1ee3i c\u1ea3m m\u00e0 ch\u00fang ta quen thu\u1ed9c ng\u00e0y nay.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng th\u1ee3 may \u1edf Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i, ch\u1ecbu \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng c\u1ee7a k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt may m\u1eb7c ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ly v\u00e0 t\u1ea1o d\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c t\u00f4n vinh \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef. D\u00e1ng \u00e1o ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng \u00f4m s\u00e1t, t\u00f4n l\u00ean v\u00f2ng eo v\u00e0 h\u00f4ng. Nh\u1eefng chi ti\u1ebft m\u1edbi, t\u00e1o b\u1ea1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c gi\u1edbi thi\u1ec7u:<\/p>\n

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  • \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb cao:<\/strong> \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb hai b\u00ean, v\u1ed1n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chi ti\u1ebft thu\u1ea7n t\u00fay ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u00e2ng l\u00ean cao, \u0111\u00f4i khi \u0111\u1ebfn t\u1eadn \u0111\u00f9i, th\u00eam v\u00e0o y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 quy\u1ebfn r\u0169 v\u00e0 l\u1ed9ng l\u1eaby ch\u01b0a t\u1eebng th\u1ea5y tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e2y.<\/li>\n
  • Bi\u1ebfn th\u1ec3 tay \u00e1o:<\/strong> Tay \u00e1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c r\u00fat ng\u1eafn th\u00e0nh tay ph\u1ed3ng ho\u1eb7c bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n, ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh xu h\u01b0\u1edbng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y.<\/li>\n
  • C\u1ed5 \u00e1o v\u00e0 Khuy c\u00e0i:<\/strong> C\u1ed5 \u00e1o Mandarin v\u1eabn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m ch\u00ednh nh\u01b0ng chi\u1ec1u cao c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 thay \u0111\u1ed5i theo th\u1eddi trang. Nh\u1eefng chi ti\u1ebft c\u00e0i khuy th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng tinh x\u1ea3o, hay pankou<\/em> (\u76d8\u6263), tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 trang tr\u00ed n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh nh\u1eefng h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft hoa v\u0103n ho\u1eb7c h\u00ecnh h\u1ecdc ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p.<\/li>\n
  • Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u v\u00e0 H\u1ecda ti\u1ebft:<\/strong> C\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u m\u1edbi nh\u01b0 voan m\u1ecfng, cotton in hoa v\u00e0 nhung sang tr\u1ecdng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng c\u00f9ng v\u1edbi l\u1ee5a v\u00e0 g\u1ea5m truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng. C\u00e1c h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft h\u00ecnh h\u1ecdc l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb Art Deco tr\u1edf n\u00ean ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn, k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft Trung Hoa v\u1edbi th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    S\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y; n\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ee9c tranh \u0111\u1ec3 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n b\u1ea3n th\u00e2n, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c b\u1edfi m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi t\u1eeb c\u00e1c ng\u00f4i sao \u0111i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh v\u00e0 gi\u1edbi th\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u01b0u \u0111\u1ebfn n\u1eef sinh v\u00e0 nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean v\u0103n ph\u00f2ng. S\u1ef1 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00fac \u0111\u1ea9y b\u1edfi c\u00e1c poster l\u1ecbch, qu\u1ea3ng c\u00e1o v\u00e0 ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p \u0111i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh Trung Qu\u1ed1c \u0111ang ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd, c\u1ee7ng c\u1ed1 v\u1ecb th\u1ebf c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 nh\u01b0 l\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i Trung Hoa ti\u00eau bi\u1ec3u.<\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
    \u0110\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m ch\u00ednh (Phong c\u00e1ch Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i)<\/th>\nM\u00f4 t\u1ea3<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
    \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft<\/strong><\/td>\n\u00d4m s\u00e1t c\u01a1 th\u1ec3, th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ly \u1edf ng\u1ef1c v\u00e0 eo.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    C\u1ed5 \u00e1o<\/strong><\/td>\nC\u1ed5 Mandarin cao, chi\u1ec1u cao thay \u0111\u1ed5i t\u1eeb th\u1ea5p \u0111\u1ebfn r\u1ea5t cao.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Khuy c\u00e0i<\/strong><\/td>\n\u0110\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00e0i l\u1ec7ch b\u00ean ph\u1ea3i v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng chi ti\u1ebft c\u00e0i khuy pankou<\/em> (khuy b\u1ea5m) tinh x\u1ea3o.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Tay \u00e1o<\/strong><\/td>\n\u0110a d\u1ea1ng t\u1eeb tay d\u00e1ng chu\u00f4ng d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn tay ng\u1eafn, tay ph\u1ed3ng ho\u1eb7c ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n kh\u00f4ng tay.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    \u0110\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb<\/strong><\/td>\n\u0110\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb cao hai b\u00ean tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh \u0111\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u<\/strong><\/td>\n\u0110a d\u1ea1ng, bao g\u1ed3m l\u1ee5a, satin, g\u1ea5m, nhung, ren v\u00e0 cotton in hoa.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

    4. Ph\u00e2n k\u1ef3 v\u00e0 Suy t\u00e0n (Th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1950-1970)<\/h3>\n

    S\u1ef1 tr\u1ed7i d\u1eady c\u1ee7a \u0110\u1ea3ng C\u1ed9ng s\u1ea3n v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp n\u01b0\u1edbc C\u1ed9ng h\u00f2a Nh\u00e2n d\u00e2n Trung Hoa n\u0103m 1949 \u0111\u00e1nh d\u1ea5u m\u1ed9t k\u1ebft th\u00fac \u0111\u1ed9t ng\u1ed9t cho s\u1ef1 th\u1ed1ng tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m \u1edf Trung Qu\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c. Ch\u00ednh ph\u1ee7 m\u1edbi xem chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y \u00f4m s\u00e1t, thanh l\u1ecbch n\u00e0y l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 suy \u0111\u1ed3i t\u01b0 s\u1ea3n, ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a t\u01b0 b\u1ea3n ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y v\u00e0 “x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i c\u0169” m\u00e0 h\u1ecd mu\u1ed1n x\u00f3a b\u1ecf. N\u00f3 nhanh ch\u00f3ng b\u1ecb thay th\u1ebf b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n, phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh v\u00e0 thi\u1ebft th\u1ef1c, n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed3 Trung S\u01a1n (hay “b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed3 Mao”). Trong th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 C\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng V\u0103n h\u00f3a (1966-1976), vi\u1ec7c m\u1eb7c s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 d\u1eabn \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 s\u1ec9 nh\u1ee5c c\u00f4ng khai v\u00e0 b\u1ee9c h\u1ea1i, v\u00e0 v\u00f4 s\u1ed1 trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u1eb9p \u0111\u1ebd \u0111\u00e3 b\u1ecb ph\u00e1 h\u1ee7y.<\/p>\n

    Trong khi s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t kh\u1ecfi \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c, di s\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u01b0u gi\u1eef b\u1edfi c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Hoa h\u1ea3i ngo\u1ea1i. T\u1ea1i H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng, n\u01a1i v\u1eabn l\u00e0 thu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1ecba c\u1ee7a Anh, chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y n\u00e0y ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c v\u00e0 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n. N\u00f3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111i l\u00e0m ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n cho nhi\u1ec1u ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf h\u01a1n v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft h\u01a1i k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o h\u01a1n. \u0110i\u1ec7n \u1ea3nh H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u0111\u00f3, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 c\u00e1c b\u1ed9 phim c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ea1o di\u1ec5n V\u01b0\u01a1ng Gia V\u1ec7 nh\u01b0 “T\u00e2m Tr\u1ea1ng Khi Y\u00eau”, sau n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 t\u00e1i ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m phong c\u00e1ch H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng tr\u00ean to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u, cho th\u1ea5y v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p thanh l\u1ecbch v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi gian v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7y n\u1ed7i bu\u1ed3n c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. T\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1, t\u1ea1i \u0110\u00e0i Loan v\u00e0 c\u00e1c c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Hoa \u1edf \u0110\u00f4ng Nam \u00c1, s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m v\u1eabn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u00e2n tr\u1ecdng cho c\u00e1c d\u1ecbp trang tr\u1ecdng v\u00e0 l\u1ec5 k\u1ef7 ni\u1ec7m.<\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    5. S\u1ef1 H\u1ed3i sinh Hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i v\u00e0 \u1ea2nh h\u01b0\u1edfng To\u00e0n c\u1ea7u (Th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1980 \u0111\u1ebfn nay)<\/h3>\n

    Sau ch\u00ednh s\u00e1ch “C\u1ea3i c\u00e1ch v\u00e0 M\u1edf c\u1eeda” c\u1ee7a Trung Qu\u1ed1c v\u00e0o cu\u1ed1i th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1970 v\u00e0 1980, \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u t\u1eeb t\u1eeb kh\u00e1m ph\u00e1 l\u1ea1i di s\u1ea3n v\u0103n h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh. S\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m d\u1ea7n d\u1ea7n tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i, ban \u0111\u1ea7u l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3ng ph\u1ee5c cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef trong ng\u00e0nh d\u1ecbch v\u1ee5 v\u00e0 h\u00e0ng kh\u00f4ng, v\u00e0 sau \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c trang tr\u1ecdng cho c\u00e1c s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n ngo\u1ea1i giao. N\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e1i \u0111\u00f3n nh\u1eadn nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a ni\u1ec1m t\u1ef1 h\u00e0o d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 thanh l\u1ecbch v\u0103n h\u00f3a.<\/p>\n

    Trong th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 21, s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf th\u1eddi trang qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf nh\u01b0 Tom Ford, Christian Dior v\u00e0 Ralph Lauren th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p c\u00e1c y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 c\u1ee7a n\u00f3\u2014c\u1ed5 Mandarin, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00e0i l\u1ec7ch v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng x\u1ebb b\u00ean\u2014v\u00e0o c\u00e1c b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c th\u1ea3m \u0111\u1ecf quen thu\u1ed9c cho c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c ng\u00f4i sao Trung Qu\u1ed1c v\u00e0 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y, c\u1ee7ng c\u1ed1 v\u1ecb tr\u00ed c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 trong t\u1eeb v\u1ef1ng th\u1eddi trang to\u00e0n c\u1ea7u.<\/p>\n

    Ng\u00e0y nay, s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m hi\u1ebfm khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c nh\u01b0 trang ph\u1ee5c h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, n\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00e0nh cho c\u00e1c d\u1ecbp \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t nh\u01b0 \u0111\u00e1m c\u01b0\u1edbi, T\u1ebft Nguy\u00ean \u0111\u00e1n v\u00e0 c\u00e1c b\u1eefa ti\u1ec7c trang tr\u1ecdng. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ea1i v\u00e0 c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u boutique, nhi\u1ec1u trong s\u1ed1 \u0111\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00f4n vinh tr\u00ean c\u00e1c n\u1ec1n t\u1ea3ng nh\u01b0 PandaSilk.com<\/strong>, \u0111ang t\u1eadn t\u00e2m t\u00e1i s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o trang ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0y cho kh\u00e1n gi\u1ea3 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. H\u1ecd th\u1eed nghi\u1ec7m v\u1edbi c\u00e1c ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u phi truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 denim, d\u1ec7t kim v\u00e0 da, v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft m\u1edbi, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 v\u00e1y d\u00e1ng ch\u1eef A, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng vi\u1ec1n kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed1i x\u1ee9ng v\u00e0 b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c hai m\u1ea3nh, \u0111\u1ea3m b\u1ea3o r\u1eb1ng s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n trong khi v\u1eabn t\u00f4n vinh l\u1ecbch s\u1eed phong ph\u00fa c\u1ee7a n\u00f3.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
    Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3<\/th>\nC\u00f4ng d\u1ee5ng v\u00e0 V\u1ecb th\u1ebf ch\u00ednh<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
    1930s-1940s<\/strong><\/td>\nTrang ph\u1ee5c h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y cho m\u1ecdi t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp; bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    1950s-1970s<\/strong><\/td>\nB\u1ecb \u0111\u00e0n \u00e1p \u1edf Trung Qu\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ea1i l\u1ee5c; \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n \u1edf H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng, \u0110\u00e0i Loan, v.v.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
    1980s-Present<\/strong><\/td>\n\u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c h\u1ed3i sinh nh\u01b0 trang ph\u1ee5c trang tr\u1ecdng, l\u1ec5 ph\u1ee5c v\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng di s\u1ea3n v\u0103n h\u00f3a.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

    T\u1eeb kh\u1edfi \u0111\u1ea7u khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o cho\u00e0ng ch\u1ee9c n\u0103ng c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u00e3n Ch\u00e2u \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ec9nh cao l\u00e0 b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed3ng ph\u1ee5c l\u1ed9ng l\u1eaby c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ho\u00e0ng kim Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i, s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1ea3i qua m\u1ed9t h\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh \u0111\u00e1ng kinh ng\u1ea1c. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 s\u1ed1ng s\u00f3t qua s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00e0n \u00e1p ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u0111\u1ec3 n\u1ed5i l\u00ean nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u00e2n tr\u1ecdng c\u1ee7a v\u0103n h\u00f3a Trung Hoa v\u00e0 v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p thanh l\u1ecbch v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi gian. S\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfn h\u00f3a c\u1ee7a n\u00f3 l\u00e0 minh ch\u1ee9ng cho s\u1ee9c b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 c\u1ee7a truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng th\u00edch \u1ee9ng, ti\u1ebfp thu v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi c\u1ee7a n\u00f3. S\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y; n\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t n\u00ean t\u1eeb l\u1ee5a, m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n k\u1ec3 v\u1ec1 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t qu\u1ed1c gia v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c m\u00ea ho\u1eb7c v\u00e0 truy\u1ec1n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng cho th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. Khi n\u00f3 ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e1c th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 m\u1edbi di\u1ec5n gi\u1ea3i l\u1ea1i, s\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m b\u1ea3o \u0111\u1ea3m di s\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t di t\u00edch c\u1ee7a qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9, m\u00e0 nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n s\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a l\u1ecbch s\u1eed th\u1eddi trang.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    S\u01b0\u1eddn x\u00e1m, hay c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 qipao, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng trang ph\u1ee5c mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng v\u00e0 d\u1ec5 nh\u1eadn bi\u1ebft nh\u1ea5t tr\u00ean th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. V\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1eaft d\u00e1ng thanh l\u1ecbch, c\u1ed5 cao ki\u1ec3u Mandarin v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng chi ti\u1ebft c\u00e0i khuy tinh x\u1ea3o, n\u00f3 l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd c\u1ee7a n\u1eef t\u00ednh v\u00e0 b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":163643,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37730],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-167655","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-faqs-vi","prodpage-classic"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/167655","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=167655"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/167655\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/163643"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=167655"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=167655"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.pandasilk.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=167655"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}