How to Wash Raw Silk

Raw silk, also known as “noil silk” or “raw spun silk,” is a unique and beautiful fabric prized for its textured appearance and natural sheen. Unlike processed silk, raw silk retains its sericin, a natural gum produced by silkworms. This gives it a slightly rougher hand and a more matte finish. However, this also means it requires special care when washing. Improper washing can lead to shrinkage, stiffness, or damage to the delicate fibers. This guide provides a comprehensive approach to safely and effectively washing raw silk.

Understanding Raw Silk’s Properties

Before diving into the washing process, it’s essential to understand what makes raw silk different:

• Sericin: This protein gum coats the silk fibers and contributes to its characteristic texture. It can be partially or fully removed during processing to create smoother, shinier silk. In raw silk, the sericin is retained, making it more sensitive to heat and harsh chemicals.
• Fiber Structure: Raw silk fibers are shorter and less uniform than those of cultivated silk. This contributes to its textured surface and makes it more prone to snagging or abrasion.
• Shrinkage: Raw silk is more susceptible to shrinkage than processed silk, especially when exposed to high temperatures.

Methods for Washing Raw Silk

There are two primary methods for cleaning raw silk: hand washing and dry cleaning. Hand washing is generally preferred for smaller items or lightly soiled pieces, while dry cleaning is recommended for larger or heavily soiled items.

1. Hand Washing Raw Silk:

Hand washing is the gentlest method and allows for greater control over the process.

• Prepare the Basin: Fill a clean basin or sink with cool or lukewarm water (never hot). Add a small amount of a mild, pH-neutral detergent specifically designed for delicate fabrics or baby shampoo. Avoid using harsh detergents, bleach, or fabric softeners.
• Submerge and Soak: Gently submerge the raw silk item in the soapy water. Avoid agitating or rubbing the fabric. Let it soak for no more than 30 minutes.
• Rinse Thoroughly: Drain the soapy water and refill the basin with clean, cool water. Gently rinse the silk several times until all traces of soap are removed. Avoid wringing or twisting the fabric.
• Remove Excess Water: Gently press the water out of the silk item. Do not wring or twist it. You can gently roll it in a clean, white towel to absorb excess moisture.
• Air Dry: Lay the silk flat on a clean, dry towel or a padded hanger in a shaded area. Avoid direct sunlight or heat, as this can damage the fibers and cause discoloration. Do not tumble dry.
• Ironing (Optional): If necessary, iron the raw silk while it is still slightly damp. Use a cool iron setting and iron on the reverse side of the fabric. You can also place a clean cloth between the iron and the silk to prevent scorching.

2. Dry Cleaning Raw Silk:

Dry cleaning is recommended for larger items, heavily soiled pieces, or items with intricate embellishments. It is also a good option if you are unsure about hand washing the fabric.

• Choose a Reputable Dry Cleaner: Select a dry cleaner with experience handling delicate fabrics, especially silk. Inform them that the item is made of raw silk and requires special care.
• Inspect After Cleaning: After dry cleaning, inspect the item carefully for any damage or discoloration.

General Tips for Caring for Raw Silk

• Avoid Frequent Washing: Raw silk does not need to be washed frequently. Only wash it when necessary.
• Store Properly: Store raw silk garments in a breathable garment bag or wrapped in acid-free tissue paper. Avoid storing them in plastic bags, as this can trap moisture and lead to mildew.
• Protect from Sunlight: Prolonged exposure to sunlight can fade or damage raw silk.
• Handle with Care: Be mindful of sharp objects or rough surfaces that could snag or damage the delicate fibers.

By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your raw silk items remain beautiful and retain their unique qualities for years to come.