How to Choose Wool Fabric

by Elizabeth / Friday, 07 February 2025 / Published in Textile Knowledge

Wool, a natural fiber derived from the fleece of sheep and other animals, has been a staple in textile production for millennia. Its inherent properties, such as warmth, durability, and moisture-wicking capabilities, make it a popular choice for a wide range of applications, from clothing and blankets to carpets and upholstery. However, not all wool fabrics are created equal. Understanding the different types of wool, their characteristics, and intended uses is crucial for making an informed purchasing decision.

1. Understanding Different Types of Wool

The term “wool” encompasses a variety of fibers sourced from different animals and breeds, each possessing unique qualities.

Wool Type	Source Animal	Characteristics	Common Uses
Merino	Merino Sheep	Extremely fine, soft, excellent drape, good elasticity, naturally breathable and temperature-regulating.	High-end clothing, base layers, socks, baby clothes.
Lambswool	Young Sheep	Very soft, fine, and hypoallergenic. Typically the first shearing from a sheep, usually around seven months old.	Sweaters, scarves, baby blankets.
Shetland	Shetland Sheep	Relatively coarse, durable, and warm. Often used in traditional Fair Isle knitting.	Sweaters, hats, outerwear.
Corriedale	Corriedale Sheep	Medium-fine, good crimp (waviness), strong, and versatile.	General-purpose clothing, blankets, knitting yarn.
Cheviot	Cheviot Sheep	Coarse, strong, and lustrous. Relatively resistant to felting.	Durable outerwear, upholstery, carpets.
Alpaca	Alpaca	Soft, lightweight, and warmer than sheep’s wool. Hypoallergenic (lanolin-free). Two main types: Suri (long, silky fibers) and Huacaya (dense, crimped fibers).	Sweaters, scarves, shawls, blankets.
Cashmere	Cashmere Goat	Exceptionally soft, luxurious, and lightweight. Provides excellent insulation.	High-end sweaters, scarves, shawls.
Mohair	Angora Goat	Lustrous, strong, and resilient. Known for its sheen and fuzzy texture.	Sweaters, scarves, coats, upholstery.
Camel Hair	Bactrian Camel	Soft undercoat with a coarser outercoat. Warm, lightweight.	Outerwear, blankets.

2. Evaluating Wool Fabric Quality

Several factors contribute to the overall quality of wool fabric. Understanding these factors will help you assess its suitability for your intended purpose.

Fiber Diameter (Micron Count): This is a crucial indicator of softness. The lower the micron count, the finer and softer the wool. Merino wool, for example, typically has a micron count below 25, while coarser wools can exceed 30.
Staple Length: This refers to the length of individual wool fibers. Longer staple lengths generally result in stronger, more durable fabrics that are less prone to pilling.
Crimp: Crimp refers to the natural waviness of wool fibers. Higher crimp contributes to elasticity, resilience, and insulation.
Color: Natural wool comes in various shades, from white and cream to brown and black. The uniformity and clarity of color can be an indicator of quality.
Cleanliness: High-quality wool should be free from excessive vegetable matter, dirt, and other contaminants.

3. Considering the Intended Use

The intended use of the wool fabric should be the primary driver of your selection.

Clothing: For next-to-skin garments, prioritize softness and comfort. Merino, lambswool, and cashmere are excellent choices. For outerwear, consider durability and weather resistance; Cheviot or a wool blend might be suitable.
Blankets: Warmth and comfort are paramount. Lambswool, Merino, and Alpaca are popular choices. Consider the weight and thickness of the blanket based on your climate and personal preference.
Upholstery: Durability and resistance to wear and tear are essential. Coarser wools like Cheviot or wool blends with synthetic fibers are often used.
Carpets: Durability and resilience are key. Coarser wools are typically preferred for their ability to withstand heavy foot traffic.

4. Understanding Wool Blends

Wool is often blended with other fibers, both natural and synthetic, to enhance its properties or reduce costs.

Blended Fiber	Purpose of Blending
Silk	Adds softness, drape, and luster.
Cotton	Increases breathability and makes the fabric less expensive.
Nylon/Polyamide	Enhances durability, abrasion resistance, and wrinkle resistance.
Polyester	Adds strength, wrinkle resistance, and makes the fabric more affordable.
Acrylic	Mimics the look and feel of wool at a lower cost. May compromise breathability and natural properties.
Linen	Adds strength, breathability.

5. Inspecting the Fabric

Before purchasing, carefully inspect the fabric:

Feel: Run your hand over the fabric to assess its softness and texture.
Drape: Hold the fabric up and observe how it falls. Does it have a pleasing drape?
Weave: Examine the weave structure. Is it tightly woven and even, or are there loose threads or irregularities?
Pilling: Gently rub the fabric against itself. Does it show signs of pilling (forming small balls of fiber)?
Smell: While a slight “sheepy” smell is normal for natural wool, a strong, unpleasant odor could indicate poor processing or storage.

The selection of wool fabric is an important decision, influenced by the fiber’s inherent characteristics, processing methods, and intended application. By taking the time to study the diverse types of wool, critically analyze quality metrics, appreciate the advantages of blends, and conduct a thorough inspection, one can confidently choose a wool fabric that meets specific requirements and delivers lasting satisfaction.