How to Knit Cashmere

Cashmere, renowned for its luxurious softness and warmth, is a prized fiber for knitters. However, its delicate nature requires specific handling and techniques to achieve the best results. Working with cashmere can be a rewarding experience, resulting in a beautiful, heirloom-quality garment. This guide provides a comprehensive overview of how to knit with cashmere, from selecting the right yarn to caring for your finished project.

1. Understanding Cashmere Fiber

Cashmere comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats. These fine fibers are incredibly soft and insulating, making them ideal for garments worn close to the skin. The quality of cashmere is determined by the fiber’s length, diameter, and color. Longer fibers are more durable and less prone to pilling, while a smaller diameter (measured in microns) indicates a softer, finer yarn.

2. Choosing the Right Cashmere Yarn

Selecting the appropriate cashmere yarn is crucial for a successful knitting project. Consider the following factors:

• Yarn Weight: Cashmere yarn comes in various weights, from lace weight to bulky. Choose a weight that is suitable for your project and desired drape. Thinner yarns are ideal for delicate shawls and scarves, while thicker yarns are better for sweaters and blankets.
• Ply: The ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to make the yarn. Single-ply cashmere is incredibly soft but can be less durable. Multi-ply yarns offer more strength and stitch definition.
• Quality: Invest in high-quality cashmere yarn. While it may be more expensive, it will result in a softer, more durable, and longer-lasting finished product. Look for yarn made from long, fine fibers.
• Blend: If you’re on a budget, a cashmere blend may be suitable. Be sure that cashmere represents the main percentage for the best results.

3. Selecting the Right Needles

The choice of needles significantly impacts the final fabric. Cashmere’s delicate fibers require careful handling.

• Needle Material: Smooth needles, such as those made from bamboo, wood, or coated metal, are recommended. These materials minimize friction and prevent snagging the delicate cashmere fibers. Avoid plastic needles, as they can sometimes create static and cause the yarn to cling.
• Needle Size: Use the needle size recommended on the yarn label as a starting point. However, always knit a gauge swatch (see below) to ensure you achieve the correct tension for your project. Cashmere tends to bloom after washing, so your gauge may change significantly.
• Needle Type: The type of needle (straight, circular, double-pointed) depends on your project. Circular needles are generally preferred for larger projects or those knit in the round, as they distribute the weight of the fabric more evenly and are more comfortable to use.

4. Knitting Techniques for Cashmere

Cashmere’s softness and delicate nature require a gentle touch and specific knitting techniques.

• Tension: Maintain an even, relaxed tension. Avoid knitting too tightly, as this can stress the fibers and make the fabric stiff. Knitting too loosely, however, can result in a fabric that lacks structure and definition.
• Stitch Choice: Simple stitch patterns, such as stockinette stitch, garter stitch, or ribbing, often showcase cashmere’s beauty best. Avoid overly complex stitch patterns that may distort the delicate fibers or obscure the yarn’s natural halo.
• Handling: Handle the yarn gently. Avoid pulling or tugging on the yarn, as this can weaken the fibers and cause them to break. Wind the yarn into a center-pull ball to prevent tangling and unnecessary stress.
• Joining Yarn: When joining a new ball of yarn, use a technique that creates a strong, invisible join, such as the Russian join or a spit splice (if the yarn is 100% animal fiber). Avoid knots, as they can be bulky and uncomfortable in the finished garment.

5. Gauge Swatch and Blocking

Creating a gauge swatch is essential when knitting with cashmere. This small sample of knitted fabric allows you to determine if your needle size and tension are correct for your chosen yarn and pattern.

• Knit a Swatch: Knit a swatch that is at least 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) in the stitch pattern specified in your pattern.
• Wash and Block: Wash and block the swatch in the same manner you intend to care for the finished garment (see below). Cashmere often blooms and changes significantly after washing, so this step is crucial.
• Measure Gauge: After the swatch is dry, measure the number of stitches and rows per inch (or centimeter). Compare your gauge to the gauge specified in the pattern. If your gauge is different, adjust your needle size accordingly and knit another swatch.

Blocking is the process of shaping and setting the knitted fabric. It helps to even out stitches, define the pattern, and give the garment its final dimensions. Cashmere benefits greatly from blocking, which enhances its drape and softness. Wet blocking is generally recommended for cashmere.

6. Caring for Cashmere Knits

Proper care is essential to preserve the beauty and longevity of your cashmere knits.

• Washing: Hand wash your cashmere garments in cool water with a gentle detergent specifically designed for wool or delicate fibers. Avoid harsh detergents or bleach, which can damage the fibers. Gently squeeze out excess water; do not wring or twist. Alternatively, some cashmere yarns may be machine washable on a delicate cycle, but always check the yarn label for specific care instructions.
• Drying: Lay the garment flat on a clean, dry towel, reshaping it to its original dimensions. Allow it to air dry completely, away from direct sunlight or heat. Avoid hanging cashmere, as this can stretch the fibers and distort the shape.
• Storing: Store your cashmere garments folded flat in a cool, dry place. Avoid hanging them, as this can cause stretching. Consider using cedar blocks or lavender sachets to deter moths.
• Pilling: Pilling is a natural occurrence with cashmere, especially in areas of high friction. Use a fabric shaver or sweater comb to gently remove pills.

Cashmere, with its inherent softness and luxurious feel, elevates any knitting project. By understanding its unique properties and employing careful techniques, you can create beautiful, lasting garments. From selecting the perfect yarn and needles to mastering gentle knitting methods and employing proper care, each step contributes to the final product’s quality and longevity. Embrace the process, and enjoy the rewarding experience of knitting with this exquisite fiber.