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  • Mulberry Silk vs. Wild Silk

Mulberry Silk vs. Wild Silk

by Elizabeth / Thursday, 04 May 2017 / Published in Silk Properties & Uses
mulberry leaves

Silk, a fabric renowned for its shimmering beauty and luxurious feel, has captivated humanity for millennia. But not all silk is created equal. The most prominent distinction lies between mulberry silk, cultivated with meticulous care, and wild silk, born of nature’s untamed artistry. This article delves deep into the characteristics, production, and uses of these two remarkable natural fibers, shedding light on their unique properties and inherent differences.

1. The Genesis of Silk: Sericulture and Natural Processes

Mulberry silk, often considered the gold standard, originates from the domesticated silkworm, Bombyx mori. These silkworms are entirely dependent on human care and a diet exclusively of mulberry leaves. This carefully controlled process is called sericulture, and it has been refined for thousands of years, producing consistent, high-quality silk filaments. The silkworms are raised in specialized facilities where temperature and humidity are strictly regulated to optimize silk production.

silk moths from cocoons

In stark contrast, wild silk is produced by various species of silkworms that are not domesticated and live freely in the forests. These silkworms feed on a diverse range of foliage depending on their habitat and species, resulting in more varied and less uniform silk strands. Prominent wild silks include Tussah silk, Eri silk, and Muga silk. This natural method produces silks that showcase a remarkable resilience and natural beauty that contrasts sharply with their more manicured counterparts.

Chinese Tussah Cocoon

2. The Weaving of Characteristics: Fiber Differences

The differences in rearing and diet lead to significant disparities in the characteristics of mulberry and wild silks:

Feature Mulberry Silk Wild Silk (General)
Appearance Smooth, uniform, luminous shine Textured, irregular, dull sheen
Color Primarily white or cream Various shades of brown, tan, gold
Fiber Diameter Thinner, more uniform Thicker, less uniform
Strength Strong, but less tensile strength Exceptionally strong and durable
Texture Soft, silky smooth More coarse, with a less refined feel
Resilience Less resistant to abrasion High resilience
Length Long, continuous filament Shorter, discontinuous fibers

Mulberry silk’s uniform fiber diameter contributes to its unparalleled smoothness and the brilliant, almost pearl-like luster for which it is famous. It is generally preferred for garments that need to drape well, such as elegant evening gowns, luxurious scarves, and delicate lingerie. Wild silks, with their greater variability, boast superior strength and durability. Their unique textures and subdued luster are cherished in various home textiles, such as upholstery fabrics and carpets, giving these spaces an earthy sophistication.

3. Processing and Production Techniques: From Cocoon to Cloth

The processing techniques used for each type of silk further impact their qualities. Mulberry silk cocoons are typically harvested before the silkworms metamorphose into moths. This allows for the unwinding of one long, continuous filament that gives this silk its notable strength. These long fibers are then woven to create the refined and glossy material so sought after.

Wild silks, on the other hand, require a different processing method, often referred to as degumming. These cocoons have harder, mineralized casings since they come from moth pupae allowed to emerge before harvesting. These are harder and not able to unwind the way a cultivated silk fiber would. Therefore, the fibers need to be combed and spun. As such the final resulting product is coarser with short stapled fibres, different than mulberry’s single-continuous fibre that creates more lustrous cloth. Because these silkworms do not follow human scheduling and do emerge, natural wild silk cannot boast the full strand of filament but relies on a processing method more closely related to processing cotton, flax, and wool.

4. Applications Across the Textile Spectrum: Usage and Aesthetics

The varying attributes of mulberry and wild silks directly affect their usage:

  • Mulberry Silk: Primarily used in luxury clothing such as: evening wear, bridal gowns, scarves, lingerie, blouses and sleepwear. Additionally, mulberry silk makes for very elegant bed sheets, pillowcases, and sleep masks. It provides comfort in sensitive fabrics by offering lightweight breathability with its smooth surface against the skin. The high-quality lustre also makes it an excellent material for a polished style of any given space.
  • Wild Silk: Given its robustness and less reflective sheen, wild silk commonly appears in interior decorating, upholstery fabrics, cushion covers, rugs, curtains and decorative pillows. Their added texture is welcome when considering a touch of more visual intrigue for any home or other setting. Wild silk’s resilience lends to excellent usage when considering more sturdy attire, outerwear and apparel meant to withstand weather patterns as well.

5. Environmental and Ethical Considerations

Ethical and environmental considerations also differ between the two types of silk. The monoculture of mulberry trees and intensive farming practices of sericulture may pose an impact to local ecosystems through their pesticide usages for tree care. Wild silks are arguably more sustainable given their natural foraging within wild forest populations, as these don’t rely on a specifically controlled single plant type that has required intensive maintenance. Further, while ethical silkworm harvest of wild silk depends on various species specific methodologies, cultivated silks always need the harvesting before the silkworm metamorphoses; it cannot grow fully, naturally, and mature if it is for cultivated silk harvest purposes.

In conclusion, both mulberry and wild silks hold distinct places in the textile world, celebrated for their unique characteristics. While mulberry silk exemplifies luxurious smoothness and elegance, thanks to meticulous human cultivation, wild silk boasts strength, durability and natural beauty drawn from untamed environments. Understanding these key differences provides valuable insights into appreciating the complexities and various uses of silk across fashion, design and our natural landscapes. Whether selecting from carefully crafted cultivated silk from farms, like PandaSilk offers, or celebrating wild-caught fabrics, these fibers carry a legacy of luxury and an ongoing connection to nature’s craftsmanship.

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